Nothing
Beats Pasta For Simplicity And Versatility
I love it when readers ask questions in
the comments section. Here's one I got the other day from a reader
named “Jeff”:
“Hi Ron! I stumbled on your blog
today and I love it – thank you for doing this. I am starting to
learn to cook and was wondering if I could get your advice on
something... I just learned how to cook eggs in 5 different ways.
Knowing what you know now, what would you suggest is the SECOND thing
I should learn how to make? I am a little intimidated by cooking meat
and would appreciate your thoughts. Thank you so much!”
I had to think
about the answer for awhile. Jeff's being intimidated by meat kind of
slowed me down because the very first thing I ever learned to cook –
at age seven – was bacon. Since Jeff has learned eggs five ways,
bacon would logically seem to be next on the menu. And a lot of
people, myself included, rate roast chicken up there as an essential
skill for beginners. I thought back on some other non-meat things I
learned to cook early on and eventually I came up with something.
I'll get to it in a minute.
But first let's
look at “cooking.” I grew up in the late '50s and early '60s and
that's when I made my first forays into the kitchen. Unfortunately,
those decades were the height of the culinary “Dark Ages” when
Mad Men ad men had America convinced that convenience was king and
that additive and preservative-laden fare in boxes, cans, and frozen
pouches was the “modern” answer to old fashioned kitchen
drudgery. Why spend hours in the kitchen slaving away with fresh
ingredients when you could just open a box and have a “wholesome”
meal in minutes? My mom – an excellent cook in her earlier years –
drank the Madison Avenue Kool Aid and so my first “cooking”
ventures involved Shake 'n Bake, instant mashed potatoes, Minute
Rice, any vegetable Birdseye or the Jolly Green Giant froze in a bag,
and whatever boxed dessert mix Betty Crocker or the Pillsbury Dough
Boy could conjure up. Then the '70s came along with the newfangled
microwave that effectively turned Mom's oven into a place to store
Tupperware. Dark days, indeed.
And recent surveys
show that the darkness is far from passing. Even as food seems to be
taking over the airwaves with shows like “Top Chef,” “Chopped,”
and “The Chew,” and food culture appears to be undergoing a
renaissance, a frightening number of teens and young adults think of
“cooking” in terms of heating up take-out food in the microwave
or popping a Pop-Tart in the toaster.
Now,
since Jeff is reading my blog (and presumably others like it) I'm
going to go out on a limb and assume that he is not interested in
“reheating” and that he actually wants to learn how to cook.
With that in mind, I'm going to
go with pasta as the “second thing” a beginning cook should learn
how to make. Nothing beats pasta for simplicity and versatility.
Of course, the
first pasta I learned to cook was the good ol' blue box of macaroni
and cheese. Don't judge. I was only eight and it was the '60s, okay?
I learned better fairly quickly. And once you learn the basics –
“Pasta 101” – you open the door to an endless variety of
delicious dishes. I'll discuss two of them: macaroni and cheese and
spaghetti.
Macaroni and cheese
is the ultimate American comfort food and it's simple to make, even
without a packet of day-glo orange toxic chemicals and preservatives.
There are two typical preparations for macaroni and cheese dishes;
stovetop and baked. They both start out the same, but finish
differently.
The stovetop
version, which is what the blue box turns out, is the quickest and
easiest – and happens to be my wife's favorite. It is nothing but
pasta – usually elbow macaroni – butter, milk, cheese, a little
flour, and some salt and pepper.
Here's what you'll
need:
8 ounces elbow
macaroni (or other short, hollow pasta)
¼ cup butter
¼ cup flour
½ teaspoon salt,
plus extra for seasoning the water
a dash of black
pepper
2 cups milk
8 ounces cheddar
cheese (mild or sharp, depending on your taste)
And here's what you
need to do:
Cook the pasta in four quarts of
boiling, salted water according to package directions. You'll want to
add at least two tablespoons of salt to the boiling water just before
you add the pasta. (No, it's not too much.) While the pasta is
cooking, you're going to do something all French and fancy; you're
going to make a roux, turn it into a bechamel, and then transform
that into a mornay. You're really just making a cheese sauce, but
doesn't the other way sound more impressive?
In a medium saucepan, melt the butter
over medium heat. When it's melted, stir in the flour. Stirring
constantly, let the resulting paste (the roux) cook for a minute or
two and then slowly add the milk. (It helps if the milk is warm.) Add
the salt and pepper and cook and stir until the sauce (the bechamel)
is bubbly. Stir in the cheese and cook, stirring frequently, until
the cheese melts into the sauce. (Now you have a mornay.)
Drain the macaroni, reserving a cup or
two of the cooking water. Add the cooked pasta to the cheese sauce
and stir it up to coat, adding a little of the pasta water as
necessary to achieve the desired consistency in your sauce.
This recipe will serve four people.
My wife thinks I complicate the process
by making an actual cheese sauce. Her method is to skip the flour and
just add the butter, milk, cheese and the salt and pepper directly to
the hot drained pasta and stir it in until it melts. Try it both ways and see which works best for you.
After you master the basic procedure,
you can play with flavors a bit. Some folks like a little nutmeg in
the sauce. And you can mix and blend different cheeses. My wife is
partial to American cheese and she uses Velveeta a lot. I sometimes
mix in Parmesan, provolone, fontina or other Italian cheeses to
change up the flavor profile. Just have fun with it.
The baked option is what you'll usually
find listed as “classic” macaroni and cheese. It's pretty much
the same procedure, except you make it and then bake it. You'll just
need a little more butter and some breadcrumbs. Here's what you do.
Prepare the macaroni and cheese
according to the stovetop recipe. The only thing you'll do
differently is cut back the cooking time on the pasta by a minute or
two. You want to do this any time you're preparing pasta to bake. If
you fully cook it to start with and then cook it further in the oven,
it'll get a little mushy.
Preheat your oven to 400°.
When the macaroni and cheese is ready, lightly grease an oven-proof
baking dish with some of the extra butter and coat it with some of
the breadcrumbs. Pour in the cooked macaroni and cheese, spread it
into an even layer, and top it with more breadcrumbs. Bake it for
about twenty minutes or until the top starts to turn a nice golden
brown.
If
macaroni and cheese is classic American comfort food, spaghetti is
the Italian equivalent. When it comes to spaghetti, though, I'm going
to tell you something that may shock you: I don't care how many
“Italian” restaurants you've been to or how many church suppers
you've attended, Italians don't eat spaghetti and meatballs and they
don't eat spaghetti with meat sauce. The gold standard for classic
Italian spaghetti is plain old spaghetti al pomodoro – spaghetti in
tomato sauce. Nothing is simpler or more delicious.
If
you're just learning to cook, you might as well start out right. All
spaghetti is not
created
equal. Quality counts. As in construction, cheap building materials
yield disastrous results. Bargain brand noodles are often made with
inferior ingredients that will cook poorly. The kind of flour used in
the pasta dictates the rate at which it releases starch when it's
cooking. Cheap stuff often breaks down quickly and/or unevenly,
resulting in a mushy, overcooked final product. Choose a good Italian
pasta. Not just one with a vowel at the end, but one that actually
has something to do with Italy. You can find it in Italian specialty
stores, but if you're just shopping at a regular supermarket, DeCecco or Barilla are your best bets.
As
for the sauce, homemade is always best. And tomato sauce really isn't
that hard to make. I'm going to give you a simple recipe for a decent
sauce. But if you don't think you're ready for that lesson, use a
prepared sauce. For most purposes, jarred sauce is generally good;
canned sauce is generally not. Again, buy a decent quality sauce and
don't get one that has all kinds of stuff in it. Supermarket shelves
sag with sauces that have meat and vegetables and mushrooms and
cheese and everything but the kitchen sink in them. You don't need or
want that. Plain, “traditional” tomato sauce is all you need. You
can add the other stuff yourself if you want, using fresh
ingredients. And as your skill level improves, you can make it all
from scratch. But to start with, use a good, plain sauce.
One
more note on cooking spaghetti......well, actually two: don't grease
up the water and don't bust up the noodles. If mama and grandma did
it that way, I'm sorry. That just goes to show that for most of the
twentieth century, Americans didn't know from a hole in the ground
how to cook pasta. DO add salt to the water – “like the sea,”
as the saying goes. Two or three tablespoons is not
too
much. DON'T add oil. Even a drop is
too much. Oil and water don't mix and oiled water doesn't keep pasta
from sticking. It just makes oily pasta. Lots of water – four or
five quarts of it – is what keeps pasta from sticking. And don't
break it in half before you cook it. Just.......just don't. Unless
you want to make a grown Italian cry.
Here's
what you need:
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, minced
2 or 3 cloves garlic, minced
a pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
1 (28 oz) can whole peeled plum
tomatoes, preferably San Marzano
kosher salt
fresh basil leaves, torn
12 oz spaghetti
2 tbsp unsalted butter, cubed
¼ cup freshly grated
Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano
Here's what you do:
If you are making your own sauce, begin
by dumping the tomatoes in a big bowl and crushing them, preferably
by hand. If you want a chunkier sauce, this is where you stop. If a
smoother sauce is desired, puree the crushed tomatoes in a blender, a
food processor, or by using an immersion blender.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over
medium-low heat. Add the minced onion and cook, stirring, until soft, three or four minutes. Add the minced garlic and cook two or three minutes more.
Don't allow the garlic to brown, or it will become bitter. Add the
red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, for an additional minute.
Increase the heat to medium and add in
the crushed or pureed tomatoes. Season lightly with salt. Cook,
stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens slightly, about twenty minutes. Remove from the heat and add in the torn basil leaves. Set
aside.
If you're using sauce from a jar, pour
it into a large skillet – not a
saucepan – and heat it up over medium-low heat. Dress it up with a
glug of olive oil and maybe some basil or oregano. Taste it and see
what it needs. When it's warmed through, put it on a back burner and
hold it at a low temperature.
Meanwhile, bring four or five quarts of salted water to a boil and cook the spaghetti to just
short of al dente. “Al dente” means “to the tooth,” which
means the noodle should have a little firmness in the center when you
bite into it. It shouldn't be hard and undercooked, but you don't
want it soft and mushy either. Drain the pasta, reserving about a cup of
the cooking water.
If you're using homemade sauce, take
out the basil and return the sauce to the heat. Stir in a little
pasta water to loosen the sauce and bring it to a simmer. Add the
cooked pasta to the pan with the sauce and continue cooking for about two minutes, stirring to thoroughly coat the pasta with sauce. Follow
the same procedure if you're using jarred sauce. In either case, add
the pasta to the sauce and not the other way around.
You will get better flavor and better texture in your finished dish
by letting the pasta cook in the sauce for a minute or two. That's
why you want to use a large skillet rather than a saucepan. Don't
ever pile plain spaghetti on a plate and pour sauce over it. I know,
I know......that's the way your favorite “Italian” restaurant
does it. Believe me, they only do it that way because that's the way
Americans have come to expect it. If the folks back in the kitchen
are the least bit Italian, you can bet they don't do it that way at
home.
Anyway, finish off by removing the pan
from the heat and adding the butter and the cheese. Toss gently until
the butter blends in and the cheese melts. The butter isn't strictly
necessary, but it gives a nice glossy finish to the sauce. And as far
as the cheese is concerned, if you use that horrible cheese-flavored
sawdust they sell in green cardboard or plastic containers, I will
know and I will find you and it won't be pretty. Seriously, if you
can't find or afford Parmigiano-Reggiano or pecorino Romano, at least
use some domestic variety of Parmesan or pecorino cheese. Please. The
canned stuff is just nasty.
Transfer your bella la pasta to
warmed bowls and serve. This recipe also serves four people.
Once you master these very basic pasta
dishes, there are literally hundreds more you can make, limited only
by your creativity and the availability of ingredients. Let me know
when you're ready, Jeff, and I'll give you a recipe for pasta
carbonara. There are eggs in it, so technically you could add a new
egg dish to your repertoire. :-)
Speaking of eggs, you didn't say what
the “five ways” you learned were, but let me tell you about
frittate.......or croque madame......eggs Florentine.....Caprese
poached eggs.....baked egg casserole.....oooo, oooo,.....homemade
mayonnaise!
Buon appetito!
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