Hamming It Up!
My wife and I were attending some fancy
function or other. The guy acting as master of ceremonies onstage was
a fellow broadcasting “celebrity.” Having been around the local
area practically since the days of Marconi, he was what you call
“beloved.” And, boy, was he ever laying it on. Not at all out of
character for this fellow, but a bit inappropriate for the occasion.
The event was not intended to be a “star” vehicle for his
inflated ego. He had a script he was supposed to follow, but his
incessant jokes and ad libs were beginning to cause some timing
issues. Yet still he persisted in trying to be the center of focus,
as he had been doing since dirt was invented. I leaned over to my
wife and said, “Even I am not that big a ham.” To which she
sweetly replied, “Oh, yes you are, honey. He's just had longer to
cure.” Hmmmmm.
So maybe it's a touch cannibalistic of
me to say that, next to bacon, ham is my favorite meat. Bacon was the
first meat I learned to love as a child and ham was next. I like
country ham and I like city ham. I like it maple glazed, honey baked,
or hardwood smoked. Wet cured or dry, cut from the butt end or the
shank, produced in Parma, Italy or in good ol' Smithfield, Virginia,
I'll take it any way I can get it. To paraphrase Will Rogers, I've
never met a ham I didn't like. Well.....almost. We'll get to that
part later.
First, let's figure out what a “ham”
is......other than the reference above. By the way, it may interest
you to know that the word “ham” as applied to one who
outrageously overacts is thought to derive from the old minstrel show
days when performers used ham fat to remove their heavy black makeup.
Beyond that, a ham is the preserved hind leg of a pig. The word
itself is derived from an Old English term for the hollow or bend of
the knee, which, in turn, came from a Germanic word for “crooked.”
People have been preserving pork legs
for human consumption since at least Roman times. There is evidence
that the Chinese were doing it long before that. And unless you are
Jewish or Muslim, chances are your ethnic culture has its own unique
way of preserving, or “curing,” ham. There are Wiltshire and York
cured hams in England, Schwarzwälder Schinken or “Black Forest”
hams in Germany, the prized jamón serrano from Spain, and, of
course, the incomparable prosciutti produced in the Parma and San
Daniele regions of Italy. Here in the United States, almost every
state gets in a plug for its proprietary hams, whether it be Georgia
or Kentucky, Vermont, Tennessee, or North Carolina. Then there's the
largely undisputed king of hams from Virginia, specifically around
the town of Smithfield, where evidence of eponymous ham production
dates back to Colonial days.
Regardless of where it's produced,
though, there are just a few basic procedures involved in curing ham:
salting, smoking, drying, aging, and spicing. Many of these
procedures overlap and most producers use varying combinations to
achieve their unique cures. There's also unprocessed, uncured ham,
referred to as “fresh” ham, but it's kind of hard to find in
supermarkets. Although fresh ham is undeniably delicious, most people
gravitate toward the traditional cured varieties.
Salting meat has been going on for
millennia. It's the method the aforementioned ancient Chinese
supposedly perfected. Today's salting process is fairly simple; you
clean the raw meat, chill it to about forty degrees Fahrenheit, and
then cover it in salt. Salt is a natural antibacterial agent that
kills harmful microbes by osmosis. There's a long scientific
explanation of the process with which I could bore you, but
basically, the salt draws life-giving moisture out of the bacteria,
causing them to dry up and die. These days, however, further
molecular chemistry often plays a part in the salting process.
Sometimes salted hams are “sugar-cured” with – guess what –
sugar, which mellows out the sharpness of the salt. Most cured hams
contain sodium nitrite. Sodium nitrite is the natural enemy of
Clostridium botulinum, the
nasty bug that causes what is commonly called “botulism.” But
nitrites also contribute to the flavor of the meat and, by their
interaction with myoglobin, cause it to turn that nice pink color we
usually associate with ham. Nitrites have been part of the curing
process for many, many, many years, but there's been a lot of talk
lately about their potential carcinogenic properties. Under most
normal conditions, ingested nitrites transform into nitric acid,
which is generally okay. Sometimes, however, they can form
nitrosamines, which are not okay. There is conflicting science on the
topic. As is usually the case, you would have to consume massive
quantities of the stuff in order to be adversely affected, but the
FDA comes down on the side of caution and limits the amount of
residual nitrites present in cured meats. I could go on and on about
the enzymatic actions and proteolysis and the effects on protein and
amino acids and all that scientific stuff involved in salt curing but
I would get as lost writing it as you would reading it, so suffice it
to say that dry curing with salt works and has done so for a long,
long time. Salt curing alone, however, does not cook a ham. Most of
them are also smoked.
Bugs don't like
smoke. Smoke keeps big bugs like gnats and mosquitoes away from your
picnic and in the curing process it kills itty-bitty bugs like
bacteria through a combination of physical and chemical actions that
just make them turn up their little toes. Besides its antibacterial
properties, wood smoke imparts wonderful flavors to meats. If you
really want to know, the flavors are the result of lignin polymers in
the wood producing a naturally occurring organic compound called
guaiacol and its derivatives as a result of thermal breakdown. (I
knew you'd want to know.) Hickory smoke is very common, although it
is also very strong and can leave an almost astringent taste. Apple
wood produces a milder smoke which imparts a nice sweet flavor to
bacon and ham. Cherry wood smoke produces a fruity flavor similar to
apple, but it is not as commonly used. Maple wood also produces a
sweet, mild flavor. Alder, oak, pecan, and mesquite are frequently
used to smoke other meats, but are not usually applied to ham.
Of
course, you can't have smoke without heat. Well......there's
so-called “liquid smoke,” but that's another discussion entirely.
The heat produced by the smoking process subjects the ham to long,
low-temperature cooking. Commercially smoked hams usually reach an
internal temperature of about 140 degrees Fahrenheit. That's why most
smoked, cured hams in grocery stores are labeled either “partially
cooked,” “fully cooked,” or “ready to eat.” That means you
can just pop a slice in your mouth and chow down. You can't do that
with fresh hams, but you can with most cured hams. They don't really
require any further cooking. And that's why it's so easy to dry out
one of those holiday hams. Because they're already cooked, there's a
fine line between warming the meat while retaining its moisture and
drying it out and turning it to shoe leather. What you do with that
holiday ham at Easter, Thanksgiving, or Christmas is pretty much just
a matter of warming it to about 130 degrees. Unless it's a “fresh”
ham, you could just
slap it on the table cold and carve it up. You could. Just don't
invite me to dinner.
Unsmoked hams are
often air dried. After the meat is salted, it is sometimes pressed to
extrude any remaining blood and impurities. Then it is washed and
hung up to dry under strict temperature and humidity controlled
conditions. And we're not talking about a couple of days. We're
talking about somewhere between nine months and a year, during which
time the meat thoroughly dehydrates and any moisture-starved bacteria
hanging around thoroughly croaks. This is how they make prosciutto
and Serrano hams. Such unsmoked hams are also considered to be raw
and that's the way you eat 'em. You might warm prosciutto up a little
bit, but you don't really “cook” it. And that's okay. It's
perfectly safe. Any microscopic critters that might have been trying
to establish a foothold a year ago have long since dried up and blown
away. This drying method sort of dovetails with the aging method I
mentioned as one of the basics.
Then there's
spicing. Not a lot of American hams are spice cured, although
seasonings like black and red pepper are commonly added. But many
European hams are spiced, especially those produced in Italy. Ham
products like culatello are cured with various blends of herbs and
spices, sometimes including garlic, juniper, paprika, and even wine
before being hung out to dry. The resulting flavors are phenomenal,
even if the initial appearance is a little off-putting. See, hams
hung up to dry age like this usually come away covered in a coating
of mold that looks thoroughly unappetizing. But once you scrape and
scrub it all off, the meat underneath is both safe to eat and really,
really good.
One more form of curing that needs to
be mentioned: wet curing. Most common grocery store hams are
wet-cured and are generally referred to as city hams. Wet-cured hams
are basically brined hams. They are soaked in a solution of salt,
sugar and other flavorings for a period of anywhere from three days
to two weeks. Sometimes they are smoked, sometimes not. A lot of
people prefer wet-cured city hams to dry-cured country hams. They
tend to be moister and have more of a porky flavor. Country hams are
drier and taste more salty. One note about wet curing; some producers
take short cuts and, rather than soaking their ham in brine, they
mechanically inject a combination salt/sugar/smoke flavoring into the
meat, resulting in a quick cure that only takes a few days. It's
cheaper that way but not necessarily better. And wet curing also adds
weight to the finished product, so you're paying extra for the water.
So
far, we've been talking about whole hams. A whole ham can weigh in at
about twenty pounds and it is just that – the whole ham from butt
to shank. “Butt,” by the way, does not refer to the pig's nether
region; it is the large blunt or “butt” end of the leg where it
attaches to the body. Technically, I suppose, it is
the pig's “butt,” but bear in mind that the pig's front shoulder
joint is also called “pork butt.” The “shank” end is the
narrower end that used to be attached to the pig's lower leg.
Half hams, the kind
most people buy when they go shopping for the holiday or dinner
table, are usually sold as either butt or shank portions. They
generally weigh less than ten pounds and can easily feed twelve to
fourteen people. The butt or upper end is a little meatier and
fattier, and is, therefore, sometimes a bit more expensive. Because
it usually contains part of the hip or “aitch” bone, it can be a
little trickier to carve. The shank or lower portion is easier to
carve, but the meat tends to be a little tougher.
A lot
of folks go nuts over having to carve a ham. They seem to think you
have to have served an internship as a surgeon or something in order
to do it properly, so they go out and buy pre-sliced or spiral sliced
hams. The spiral slicing technique was patented in 1952 by its
inventor, Harry J. Hoenselaar, who went on to found the HoneyBaked
Ham Company in 1957. Nothing wrong with buying pre-sliced ham, but
you often pay dearly for the convenience. Spiral-sliced hams are also
really easy to dry
out, so be careful when you heat them up.
Hams are sold
bone-in or boneless. By and large, bone-in hams are more flavorful,
but boneless are easier to carve and serve. The biggest difference is
textural. Bone-in hams have better, more natural texture than
boneless. This is because when the bone is removed, the ham has to be
reshaped in a vacuum tumbler. Otherwise it falls apart when you try
to carve it. This process often imparts an odd, spongy texture. It's
not all that bad, but there is a noticeable difference.
You can buy ham
slices or ham “steaks” all neatly wrapped in plastic in your
grocer's meat case. These are generally cut from the shank end of the
ham and contain a small circle of bone in the center. It's a good
alternative if a big ol' hunk of ham is just too much. At least it is
actually recognizable as a portion of ham from some part of a pig.
Not so much with
so-called “deli” ham or “canned” ham. Come on. Be honest.
Have you ever seen any kind of pig with any parts that are shaped
like that? And when it comes to canned ham, packaged sliced ham, and
even the ham products in the deli case, “parts” is the operative
word. Well.....one of the operative words. The other one is
“pressed.”
Canned ham and
“sandwich” ham are produced by taking ham parts and scraps –
sometimes even bone scraps – and pressing them into a solid mass.
Even though the parts have been smoked and cured, by the time they
come together in those nifty little loaf shapes, they have had enough
water added that they are very subject to spoilage. That's why
they're in the refrigerated section and that's why you need to keep
them refrigerated at home. In addition to water, many of them also
contain enough chemicals to preserve an Egyptian mummy. The stuff
they slice “fresh” in the deli is not so preservative laden.
That's why it is recommended that you use “deli” ham within a few
days of purchase.
Now, I'm not going
to try to convince you that I never use packaged or sliced ham. I do.
There's some in the refrigerator right now. And you and I both know
the ham they serve up in sandwiches at delis and fast-food places
does not come fresh from the hind quarter of a pig they've got
hanging up in the cooler. It's processed and there's not much you can
do about it. Except to try to choose the best quality, most minimally
processed processed ham you can find. I'd avoid the stuff in the one
pound bags that sells for less than a dollar, if I were you. Spend
the money. And read the labels. Here's what's in the packaged ham in
my refrigerator: ham, water, salt, turbinado sugar, celery juice
powder, and lactic acid starter culture. The celery juice is added as
a source of nitrate. The lactic acid starter is a preservative that
acts as a flavor enhancer. I also checked on a cheap national brand
found in most stores. It contains: ham, water, salt, dextrose, sodium
lactate, sodium phosphate, sodium diacetate, sodium erythorbate, and
sodium nitrite. Would you like a little extra salt with that?
And as
far as canned hams go, they make great doorstops. Back in my younger,
far less educated days, I used to buy these neat little canned ham
patties. They were convenient and they sort of tasted like ham. Then
one day, I got one that was so loaded with fat, gristle, and bone
fragments that I wouldn't even feed the rest of it to my dog. If
you'll pardon the pun, I was “cured” of buying that particular
canned ham product. As far as regular canned ham goes, anything that
comes packaged in its own aspic and is “shelf stable” for two or
three years......well........enough said. In researching this
article, I came across a review of a canned ham product in which the
reviewer said, “Food snobs may be appalled at the very idea
of canned ham, but I just enjoy the convenience, the consistent
quality and the ease of preparation.” Okay, so I'm a food snob. But
when I go to my grave, it won't be with innards that are already
preserved, thank you.
Of course, no treatise on ham would be
complete without a mention of the granddaddy of all preserved ham
products, one which has had songs written about it and that is a
cultural staple in Hawaii. I'm talking about Spam! There. I mentioned
it.
One last word about buying ham: water.
All but the highest grade of ham has water added. Those high grade
hams can be easily identified by the label, which just says “ham.”
Next, you're likely to see “ham in natural juices.” Okay. Water
is a “natural juice,” you know, and that's what you're getting.
Sometimes as much as ten percent added weight. The next grade down is
labeled “ham, water added.” At least they're up front about it.
What they may not be up front about is the amount of water
they've added. Read the fine print. Finally, there's “ham and water
product.” Run away. These products can actually contain more than
fifty percent water, meaning they are made up of more water than
meat. Nah.
I haven't gone into cooking methods and
techniques because there are a ton of them and this article is
already bordering on too long. Maybe I'll do another on cooking ham
someday. But for now, I hope you're at least a little better informed
about that delectable portion of porcine perfection, ham. You know,
that word really should be spelled with more “m”s. “Ham-m-m-m-m.”
Yeah, that's better.
