Sinfully Delicious Porky Ambrosia
I just finished reading an article that
I couldn't resist. It purports to identify the best bacons known to
man.
(http://shine.yahoo.com/shine-food/10-best-bacons-known-man-162800607.html)
When listing the “best” of
anything, it is a completely subjective exercise based largely upon
personal opinion. And you know how I feel about opinions; everybody
is entitled to mine. And in my opinion, the authors here missed the
bacon boat by one slab. But all is not lost. Way down in the comments
section following the main body of text, somebody got it. Somebody
mentioned the absolute best bacon known to
man. That would be the thick, rich, unctuous, salty, smoky, sinfully
delicious porky ambrosia produced in a little brick smokehouse just outside Madisonville, Tennessee by Allan Benton
at Benton's Smoky Mountain Country Hams.
Now, other than this egregious
exclusion, I'm going to give the authors credit for most of their
choices. I say “most.” Nueske's definitely belongs up there in
the bacon stratosphere, as do any of the choices that contain
reference to “applewood” and/or “smoked.” I'll even grant
them kudos for selecting Oscar Meyer Center Cut as the best “store
bought” bacon money can buy. But in order to be taken
seriously here, they've got to lose the duck.
Here's the dictionary definition of bacon: “the back and sides of
the hog, salted and dried or smoked, usually
sliced thin
and fried
for food.” Do
you see “duck,” “turkey,” “cow,” “chinchilla,” or any
other animal presented in that very simple definition? No. Bacon =
pig. Period. End of discussion.
So let's go back to the original
article, eliminate the duck aberration, and add Benton's bacon to the
top of the list. Now we're cookin'!
There's a reason Allan Benton has been
called “the Pork Whisperer” and elevated to the station of “Bacon
Baron.” There's a reason David Chang at New York's legendary
Momofuku, Sean Brock at Charleston's famed McCrady's, John Fleer at
Walland, Tennessee's renowned Blackberry Farm and a host of other
Michelin-starred chefs from all over seek out Benton's bacon. There's
a reason it shows up on the menu in restaurants from Los Angeles to
Atlanta. There's a reason John T. Edge featured it in Gourmet, and
its been mentioned in Southern Living , Saveur and
a host of other national publications. It's the same reason
I'll get off I-75 and make a sixty mile round trip detour anytime I'm
in East Tennessee. Allan Benton does bacon the way bacon is supposed
to be done. The old-fashioned way. The real bacon way.
Some might call it “artisan” bacon, and by any definition, Allan
Benton is an artisan. But he'll tell you it's just country.
With the exception
of refrigeration, there ain't nothin' mechanical or 'lectrical at
Benton's. Everything is done by hand; everything from the cutting of
the hickory wood for the smokehouse through the processing of the
meat itself. And that meat is exceptional, too. Nothing but
pasture-raised, heritage-breed pigs, like Berkshire and Duroc, who
feed on natural forage like the leaves and acorns and grasses of oak forests.
According to Benton, the meat from these pigs contains more
intramuscular fat and has a heartier flavor.
“We
Cure 'Em” says the hand-painted sign out front. And that's just
what they do at Benton's Smoky Mountain Country Hams. Relying on
age-old techniques, handed down through generations, the meats at
Benton's are slow-cured. He uses a rub made of salt and brown sugar
and then smokes the bacon in thick clouds of hickory or applewood
smoke. “We smoke the heck out of them for three days,” says
Benton.
Back
in 2009, Esquire Magazine
called Benton's “the world's best bacon.” Now, how are you going
to argue with a culinary authority like that?
And
here's the best part: you can get four pounds of
Benton's Hickory Smoked Country Bacon for $24. Hello? That's six
bucks a pound! Compared that to
the prices of some of the other bacons on that “top ten” list.
It's only a dollar a pound more than the premium store-bought brand.
Now, if you order online through http://bentonscountryhams2.com/
it'll be about a month before you get your bacon. They're a little
busy, you see. But if you happen to be anywhere within, oh, say a
hundred miles of Madisonville, Tennessee – it's just a little ways
south of Knoxville – you might just drop in at 2603 Highway 411 and
get some direct from the smokehouse. That's the way I do it. Or
sometimes I get friends passing through to supply me. Who wants to
wait a month for slices of the bacon they probably serve in heaven?
See why I believe
the authors of the “ten best” list goofed? Go ahead and try their
favorites. And then treat yourself to mine – and Emeril's and Hugh
Acheson's and Sean Brock's and........
Try the rest, then
buy the best: Benton's Hickory Smoked Country Bacon from Benton's
Smoky Mountain Country Hams. It's so good that if you put it on top of your head, your tongue will slap your brains out trying to get to it.
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You can help by becoming a follower. I'd really like to know who you are and what your thoughts are on what I'm doing. Every great leader needs followers and if I am ever to achieve my goal of becoming the next great leader of the Italian culinary world :-) I need followers!
Grazie mille!
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