Don't Buy It, Bake It
I've written reams about the virtues of
home-baked bread over that gummy, preservative-laden, bread-like
substance you buy in the supermarket. So this isn't going to be
another rant; just a recipe for the simplest, most delicious bread
ever.
This recipe is for a “boule.”
That's French for “ball,” and the recipe turns out a couple of
very rustic loaves that resemble slightly squashed balls. Slice 'em
up for fantastic sandwich bread, fabulous toast, or just to have some
great, fresh bread on the table. I catered a luncheon for twenty-some
people a little while back, and I put baskets of this bread on the
tables along with some herbed olive oil for dipping and some soft
butter for spreading. Not a single slice came back when we cleared
the tables.
The best thing about this recipe –
besides delicious bread – is the fact that you don't need a slew of
special equipment to make it. Parchment paper and a baking stone
produce the best results, but you can make do with just a baking
sheet. And if you've got a mixer, food processor, or bread machine to
make the dough, great. If not, you can make it by hand.
Here's what you'll need:
1 ½ cups of warm water (about 110°
F)
1 ½ teaspoons instant
dry yeast
3 ¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup whole wheat flour
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon Kosher salt
1 teaspoon diastatic malt powder (optional)
A
few ingredient notes: 110°
F is a good target temperature for working with yeast. If your water
temp is below 100°
your yeast will be sluggish to react and if you exceed 115°
it'll croak. Use a thermometer if you've got one, otherwise just
think “lukewarm.” If the water feels “cold” or “hot” to
you, the wee yeasties will probably think so too.
Always
use unbleached, unbromated flour. My preference is King Arthur.
Potassium bromate is an additive you don't really need or want.
Originally used as an “improver,” it has since been linked to
cancer and banned almost everywhere – except, of course, in the
U.S. Here, our watchdog/lapdog FDA has not actually banned
the
use of bromate, but since 1991 they have “encouraged” bakers not
to use it. And “bleached” flour is just that: flour that has been
bleached by the addition of a whitening agent, usually benzoyl
peroxide or calcium peroxide. Again, it's an attempt to “improve”
on nature, and you don't need it. And, again, it's banned in Europe
but not in the U.S.
I
call for Kosher salt here, but you can use common salt as well. In
fact, I don't usually use Kosher salt in baking, but it seems to work
well in this recipe. Just remember, common salt is “more salty”
so only use about 1 ½ to 2 teaspoons in place of the tablespoon of
Kosher salt. And don't use iodized salt if you can help it. Iodized
salt is a holdover from an era when a lack of dietary iodine,
especially among poorer classes, was a principle cause of goiter and
other ailments. Regardless of economic status, everybody
used
salt, so health officials started recommending the addition of iodine
to salt. It's not really necessary anymore, but iodized salt is still
the most common salt in American kitchens. However, iodine and heat
do not play well together. The high temperatures used in baking can
cause iodine to break down, often leaving a slightly bitter or
metallic taste. If you've ever had homemade bread or baked goods that
tasted a little “off” – not enough to make you say “yuck”
and throw them away, but just enough to make you go “hmmmm” –
they were probably baked using iodized salt.
Finally,
you're probably wondering what in the world “diastatic malt powder”
is. If you don't have it, don't worry about it.
Diastatic malt powder is a "secret ingredient" some bread
bakers use to promote a strong rise, great texture, and a nice brown
crust. The amylase enzyme in diastatic malt powder breaks down
starches into sugars, thus helping with rise, crust and crumb texture
in doughs, yielding a good, strong rise, great oven-spring, and a
more tender final product. But as nice as it is to have (you can get
it at
http://www.kingarthurflour.com/shop/items/diastatic-malt-powder-16-oz)
you don't really need it to make great bread.
Okay. On to the method.
You don't have to proof
instant yeast, but I usually do. Add it to ½ cup of the water and
wait about five minutes until it gets foamy. (If it doesn't, it's
dead and you need to start over with fresher yeast.)
In a
large bowl, mix the flours, then add the oil and the diastatic malt
(if using). Add the yeast mixture and the remaining water. Mix to
incorporate. Allow the dough to rest (autolyse) for a few minutes and
then add the salt last. (Salt has an effect on the enzymes in
flour, as well as how the water affects gluten development and yeast
activity. Letting the dough sit without salt allows for enzymes to do
most of the gluten development work before you start actually
kneading it, letting it form a developed dough very quickly.)
Mix to form a wet,
rough dough and knead for about 5 minutes. You can do this in a mixer
or machine, or you can do it by hand.
Place the dough in
a lightly greased container, cover and allow to rise for about 2
hours. DO NOT punch it down. You want nice holes in the finished
crumb and punching down the dough will push out all the air and will
give the bread a denser texture.
Carefully remove
the dough to a lightly floured work surface and dust it with a little
flour to make it easier to handle. Divide it into two equal pieces (I
weigh mine) and shape the pieces into rounds. Cover a peel with
parchment paper. Place the formed rounds on the parchment covered
peel, cover them with a slightly damp towel, and allow them to rest
and rise for 40 to 60 minutes.
Position
a baking stone on a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to
425°.
When
the loaves have risen, make two slashes in the surface, about
1/2-inch deep, using either a baker's lame or a very sharp
knife. Lightly dust the surface with flour and slide onto the baking
stone. Mist the interior of the oven with water to create steam.
(Alternately, you can place a metal pan or rimmed baking sheet in the
bottom of the oven while it's preheating. After you place the bread
on the stone, toss about ½ cup of ice into the pan to create the
steam.)
Bake for 30 to 35
minutes.
This
bread is so good that even when it turns out bad, it's still good. I
recently had a run-in involving a couple of extra soft and sticky
loaves and a dull knife. When I attempted to slash them, the knife
hung up in the sticky dough and dragged through it without leaving a
good cut. This, of course, deflated my perfectly risen dough and the
resultant loaves looked more like naan on steroids than a nice puffy
boule. But when I sliced into it, darn if the crumb and the flavor
weren't still perfect. Which
proves two things: 1) you need a really sharp knife to slash sticky
dough and 2) it's almost impossible to screw up this recipe.
Now go forth and
bake some real bread.
Sounds absolutely delicious (and easy to do) - thank you... will bake this weekend :)
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