What's Wrong With Plain Ol' “Brown”?
To my increasing annoyance, I notice
that a lot of people cooking on TV these days appear to be educated
beyond their intelligence. It's a common failing among those who feel
compelled to demonstrate a higher level of erudition than they
actually posses. The most common example of this compulsion is the
employment of “big words.” I'm sure you're familiar with the
phenomenon. Everybody knows somebody who tries to impress with
excessive grandiloquence. As one who frequently uses “ten dollar
words” when fifty-cent ones will do, I am quite familiar with the
practice. The difference, however, is that I know what the big words
mean and I use them appropriately. I would much rather
sound supercilious than stupid.
The particular focus of my ire today is
the ubiquitous culinary buzzword “caramelize.” “Caramelize”
is a great word. When pronounced properly, it has four syllables
rather than three and it means one of two things: either to change
sugar into caramel by cooking it, or to cook something containing
sugar slowly until it becomes brown and sweet. It is not, however,
simply a synonym for “brown.” And anybody who has ever opened a
textbook at a culinary school should know that.
For
example, here is a quote from Cooking at Home, a
book published by one of those culinary schools, the Culinary
Institute of America: “The first step in many braises or stews is
to brown the surface of the meat or poultry quickly in fat over high
heat.” Later in the paragraph; “Brown the meat in batches without
overcrowding.” Still more; “After the meat is browned, remove it
from the pot and sauté
a mixture of aromatics in the same fat.” “Brown” and “browned,”
not “caramelize” and “caramelized.” Did you catch that, CIA
graduate and rampant caramelizer Michael Symon?
The
only way one can “caramelize” meat is if the meat has been glazed
or coated in something containing sugar. Only then can the surface of
the meat “caramelize.” Otherwise, it browns through
the Maillard reaction. I refer to the well-respected Harold McGee,
whose exhaustive work On Food and Cooking: The Science and
Lore of the Kitchen is almost an
industry Bible. On page 688, McGee states, “Caramelization
is the cooking of plain sugar
syrup until it turns brown and aromatic. It is similar to the
browning or Maillard reactions that give color and aroma to roasted
meats, baked goods, and other complex foods, but unlike the browning
reactions it proceeds in the absence of amino acids and proteins. It
requires higher temperatures than the browning reactions, and
produces a different mixture of aromatic compounds and therefore a
different flavor. Cooks have spoken of “caramelized” or
“carmelized” meats for better than a century, but this is not
really correct.”
Are
you listening, Rachael Ray, Lidia Bastianich, and a host of other
caramelizing TV cooks? Maybe this will bring home the point: On page
299 of his excellent book, What Einstein Kept Under His
Hat, food scientist and former
Washington Post food
columnist, Robert L Wolke, writes: “Much confusion exists between
Maillard browning and sugar browning or caramelization. Both a sugar
molecule's carbonyl group and a protein molecule's amino group must
be present if Maillard browning, also known as sugar-amine browning,
is to take place. Heat accelerates the Maillard browning reactions,
but they can take place at temperatures as low as 122°
F (50°C).
The reactions can even proceed slowly at room temperature, such as
when foods turn brown from age. In contradistinction, the browning of
pure sugar or other carbohydrates at temperatures higher than about
250°F
(120°C)
– in the absence of an amino acid or other nitrogen-containing
compound – takes place by a completely different set of complex
chemical reactions, called caramelization. Many
chefs seem to love the word caramelize,
and use it indiscriminately to describe any food that turns brown
upon being cooked. But meat, poultry, fish, vegetables, and other
protein-containing foods do not caramelize. They simply brown. Not as
fancy a word, perhaps, but accurate.”
Let me reiterate
that last line: “meat, poultry, fish, vegetables, and other
protein-containing foods do not caramelize. They simply brown. Not as
fancy a word, perhaps, but accurate.”
And
therein lies the crux of the issue, the education beyond intelligence
to which I alluded earlier. “Caramelization” is a “fancy”
word. “Brown” is not. So in order to sound more erudite and
brainy and perhaps more authoritative, TV cooks toss “caramelization”
around at every turn of a spatula, even though by any and all
standards it is quite incorrect. And once one TV cook starts doing
it, they all jump on
the bandwagon because nobody wants to sound dumber than the next guy.
And that's how a perfectly legitimate cooking term becomes a
meaningless buzzword.
I will promise you
this: in 99% of professional kitchens, you will find chefs “browning”
meat. They graduated from the same schools that some of the TV cooks
attended, but they are not out there trying to impress people sitting
in a studio or in front of a TV with their extensive vocabulary. I
deliberately laid on some big words throughout this piece because I
wanted to illustrate a great old philosophy that says, “If you
can't dazzle 'em with brilliance, baffle 'em with bullshit.” And
that's just what many of these TV cooks are trying to do. You're just
a little ignorant home cook. You should be impressed by them because
they “caramelize,” while you merely “brown.” Don't be
intimidated. Just because you don't make duck confit as a regular
thing doesn't mean you are any less than the TV whiz kids. When it
comes down to it, we're all just cooks. “Chef” and “star”
have become almost meaningless. And if you need proof, just look at any of the "chefs" competing on “Food Network Star.”
You just keep on
browning, home cooks. Brown long, brown loud, and brown proud!
Because you're entirely right and those caramelizing kooks on the
boob tube are completely wrong.
Hi Ron! I stumbled on your blog today and I love it -- thank you for doing this. I am starting to learn to cook and was wondering if I could get your advice on something... I just learned how to cook eggs in 5 different ways. Knowing what you know now, what would you suggest is the SECOND thing learn how to make?
ReplyDeleteI am a little intimidated by cooking meat and would appreciate your thoughts.
Thank you so much!