Italia sta guardando!
The
Italian Trade Commission is in una
sudore on
the topic of counterfeit Italian food products, especially in North
America, where the U.S., Canada, and Mexico are among the most
egregious offenders in the consumption of fake Italian food. Trade
Commissioner Pasquale Bova unequivocally states, “If you're not
buying Italian, you're not eating Italian.”
He's right.......and he's wrong.
The
main reason Italy is so exercised over the issue is economic. A
number of papers (like this one:
http://ageconsearch.umn.edu/bitstream/7861/1/pp07ni01.pdf)
have been published on the subject, so I'm not going to go on for
pages and pages about it. Suffice it to say that agribusiness is big
business in Italy. It is a staple of the Italian economy, and
imitation Italian food products take a big bite out of the economic
pie. In the same way that those fake Gucci handbags sold at American
flea markets affect the profits of the real fashion house, the fake
Parmesan cheese sold in American supermarkets affects the bottom line
for the producers of the real thing.
Then there's the more hard to define cultural effect. Not only is
food a big part of the Italian economy, it is also an essential
element of Italian culture. And officials like Bova are rightly
concerned about the “dumbing down” of the palate that occurs as a
result of the consumption of knock-off ingredients. Once you get used
to cheap, crappy “Italian” food, your appreciation for the real
thing diminishes. I know people who find real Italian food to have
overwhelming flavors because they are so accustomed to eating
imitation Italian garbage.
Over the course of time and through generations of experience,
consumers have been led to believe, and correctly so, that “Italian”
is synonymous with “quality.” Whether it be artisan meats and
cheeses, exceptional produce and pasta, or superior oils and
vinegars, the “Italian” imprimatur guarantees a high level of
performance that people come to expect. And that is precisely how
purveyors of inferior products prey upon consumer confidence. They
understand that nobody has ever gone broke pandering to the
consumer's desire for a bargain, so they take advantage of Italian
branding to make their cheap junk appealing to cost conscious buyers.
They accomplish this in three ways: packaging iconography, name
branding, and sloganeering.
To the average shopper, anything wrapped in green, white, and red
says “Italy.” Cheap manufacturers know that and they capitalize
on it. They stick the colors of the Italian flag on everything and
hope that you won't notice the product was made in Poughkeepsie
rather than in Parma. Images of gondoliers, the Colosseum, or the
Leaning Tower of Pisa help sell the effect.
Most Italian words end in a vowel. Some have unique suffixes like
“ini,” “oni” and “etta.” So all knock-off producers have
to do to get you to think their product is authentic is to stick a
vowel or an Italian-sounding suffix on a word and – tah-dah!
Instant Italian identification. “Freschetta” pizza comes
immediately to mind. Not only is this not real Italian, it's not even
even good made up Italian. They pronounce it “fresh-etta.” If it
were a real Italian word, it would be pronounced “freh-SKEHT-tah.”
Then you have those Italian-sounding surnames. Throw an a,e,i, or o
on almost any name and you can make it sound Italian. “Smithini,”
anyone? To paraphrase Shakespeare, “What's in a name? That which
we call Italian by any Italian name could still be fake.” And,
bless her heart, “Mama” can sell almost anything. All-a you gotta
do is-a put-a pica-ture of-a Mama on-a da label an-a you gonna sell-a
lotsa spaghetti sauce-a.
Then
there are Italian words and phrases – or at least those that are
supposed to sound Italian or be Italian inspired. Put something like
“Mamma Mia” on your box and you've got a surefire sale. Or “like
Mama used to make.” Or “Old World Quality.” Or “real Italian
taste.” Another is “Italian-style.”
Watch out for that one. You can even use real Italian words on your
imitation stuff. One of my favorites is “Autentico.” How much
more authentic can you get?
The
Italian Trade Commission has set up a website at
https://italianmade.com.
There's a great video there spoofing a fake brand of
pasta sauce called “Authentissimo.” It's got a green, white, and
red label and it's being made by an Italian-looking grandmother in an
Italian-looking kitchen. But “Nonna” pulls her gray wig off at
the end to reveal she is just an actress on a set. The website is
aimed primarily at the Canadian market, but the message is good
across the board (or the border.)
It's not difficult to identify real
Italian products. They say “Made In Italy” on them. Some have the
initials D.O.P. and/or a little red seal indicating that they are
Denominazione d'Origine Protetta, meaning
they are from a specific controlled, protected area in Italy.
By Italian law (Decreto-legge 25 settembre 2009, n. 135), only
foods that are entirely produced in Italy may use the designation
“Made In Italy” on their labels. This differs significantly from
other designations such as “Product of Italy” or “Packed in
Italy,” wherein the only requirement is that something Italian be
involved somewhere in the process. The tomatoes, for example, could
be from Spain and the jars from Lithuania, but as long as they were
brought together in a factory in Italy, they can be called “Product
of Italy.”
Staying with the tomato example, San
Marzano-grown plum tomatoes are a highly-prized Italian variety
produced in a controlled, specified area of Italy. Now check out the
labels in your supermarket. Cento markets a couple of different
tomatoes under their bright yellow and red labels. One is labeled
“San Marzano, Product of Italy,” and bears the word “Certified.”
Okay. This product used to say “D.O.P.
Certified.” Now it just says “Certified” and the verbiage on
the back alludes to an independent third party. The Cento website
says the packing plant is located just 22 miles southeast of Naples.
Okay. So why did they drop the “D.O.P.” designation? Could be
because the manufacturer got tired of paying for it. Anyway, right
next to those “San Marzano” tomatoes you'll find cans that say
“Italian Peeled Tomatoes,” also labeled “Product of Italy,”
and beside those some that say “Italian Style Peeled Tomatoes.”
No mention of Italy on that label. All have different price points,
the “Certified” ones being the most expensive. Another popular
“Italian” tomato brand doesn't actually carry a brand name. The
labels are white and they have pictures of plum tomatoes on them. On
the pictured tomatoes are the words “San Marzano.” There's a
little colored band running around the top and the bottom of the can
bearing the Italian words “Pomodori Pelati” or “Pomodori
Cubetti” and the English translation “Whole Peeled Tomatoes” or
“Diced Tomatoes.” That all sounds Italian, right? Look closer.
The fine print at the very bottom of the label reads, “Grown
Domestically in the U.S.A.” They are about as Italian as
Florence........HENDERSON! I actually grew some San Marzano varietal
tomatoes in my garden last year. And my garden is nearer Naples,
Florida than it is Naples, Italy. I'm not saying any of these
products are bad; they're
just not as Italian as they seem. Caveat emptor.
Which leads to the part where I take
slight issue with commissario Bova's “if
you're not buying Italian, you're not eating Italian” statement. In
my book – and many others – the hallmark of Italian cuisine is
the ability to take the best, freshest, most seasonal local
ingredients and turn them into something delicious. And while I might
agree that Italian-made products are the standard and the benchmark,
I have to disagree with the sentiment that they are the only
way
to create wonderful Italian food.
I
live in the boonies,
boys
and girls. There ain't no Prosciutto di Parma or Parmigiano-Reggiano
on the shelves at my neighborhood grocery store. Oh, I can sometimes
find it in the high-end shops in the “Big City” forty or fifty
miles down the road, but for day-to-day shopping and cooking, I might
be limited to country ham from Virginia and Parmesan cheese made in
Plymouth, Wisconsin. My mozzarella may not be “di
bufala,”
but there's an artisan cheesemaker at the farmers market who does a
pretty good job with cow's milk. And as I said, my San Marzano
tomatoes often come from my garden rather than from Campania. Or I
may have to use plain old fresh plum tomatoes from the produce market
around the corner. Does that mean that I can't turn out some Italian
food that would knock commissario
Bova's calze off?
Not on your life. I buy Italian when I can find it and when I can
afford it. The rest of the time I cook
like an
Italian, and that's far more important, if you ask me.
But not everybody has that ethic where quality is concerned and in
that respect, Sig. Bova is completely right. Far too many North
Americans are content to grab a can of vaguely cheese-flavored
sawdust in a green plastic or cardboard can and call it “Parmesan.”
And rather than De Cecco or Barilla or something that has some
provable connection to Italy, they'll grab the cheapest store brand
pasta they can find on the theory that “spaghetti is spaghetti,”
which it decidedly is not. And instead of taking a few minutes to
saute some onions in olive oil and stir in some tomatoes and herbs,
they opt for the sauce in the jar with the Italian-sounding name.
“THAT'S Italian!” the old TV commercials used to say. No. Not
even close.
Buy
real Italian products whenever and wherever you can. They truly are
the best quality and the best representation of the Italian culture.
But when you can't buy Italian, cook like
an
Italian, using fine, fresh, local ingredients. Yes, in both instances
it'll cost a little more, but the results will be undeniably worth
it. As for the fake Italian products with the fake Italian names,
leave them on the shelves to gather fake Italian dust. You and your
family deserve better.
And besides, the ITC is watching.
Thanks for sharing, nice post! Post really provice useful information!
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