Subscribing To The
“Abbondanza” Myth Can Pack On The Pounds
I have an
acquaintance who is a real “meat and potatoes” kind of guy.
Lately he's been skipping the potatoes. He's hitting middle age, his
hairline is receding and his waistline is expanding. And he believes
he can ameliorate all of this – or at least the waistline part –
by eschewing any and all forms of fat and carbohydrate. This puts us
on a collision course because he believes Italian food is inherently
fattening. His bias is common: all he envisions when he thinks of
Italian food is overloaded pizza and heaping plates of pasta. And
what is his idea of an “authentic” Italian restaurant? Olive
Garden, of course. Uffa!
There
is a gulf as vast as the Atlantic between real Italian food as it is
traditionally prepared and consumed in Italy and the stuff that is
served in the big American chain “Italian” restaurants. Believe
me when I say the whole“abbondanza”
concept
is an American marketing gimmick that stereotypes Italians and
Italian food. Do Italians like to eat? About as much as they like to
breathe. But do they routinely sit down with piles of steaming pasta
on plates the size of hubcaps. Never. Do they throw everything but
the kitchen sink on top of a pizza that's as big as a trash can lid?
Unheard of. And yet, that's the way most Americans think of Italian
food.
A
friend of mine runs a local Italian restaurant. He is originally from
a village near Naples and I ride him all the time about his menu and
his portions. When he serves me, I tell him, “Bring me a plate of
pasta like your mama would do.” That means I want a portion about
the size of a closed fist. To everybody else, he brings out pasta on
platters. Why? Because “that's what the customers expect.” And
there are a number of things he wishes he could take off his menu.
They're not Italian. But because the locals think
they
are, he has to serve these dishes in these monstrous proportions or
else people go looking for an Olive Garden.
Back
to the question at the top of the page: is Italian food fattening? If
you're eating at a typical American chain restaurant, the answer is
an emphatic “yes.” To
that end, my carbo-phobic friend is right.
Olive
Garden, the place that invites you to “experience today's Italy,”
serves a fried lasagna over Alfredo sauce that weighs in at 1,030
calories and will provide you with two-and-a-half days worth of
saturated fat. (We won't discuss the fact that nobody in Italy fries
lasagna and nobody there knows what “Alfredo sauce” is.) Want a
“Tour of Italy?” Better be prepared to pack 1,450 calories for
your journey. Bring along a couple of extra bags for the 165% of your
daily saturated fat allowance and the 160% of your days' sodium.
How
about Maggiano's? Recently voted America's most popular Italian chain
restaurant, they'll only saddle you with with a baked rigatoni that
will cost you 1,390 calories or a gnocchi with vodka cream sauce
that's good for 1,220.
Or
there's the “Mama's Trio” at Romano's Macaroni Grill. At 1,290
calories, it's certainly enough for a trio and the whopping 190% and
136% worth of your days' saturated fat and sodium intake are more
than enough for three.
Carrabba's
wants you to be healthy, so they serve whole wheat pasta – and
1,349 calories with their Fettuccine Weesie, which also contains 57
grams of saturated fat and an unconscionable 2,938 milligrams of
sodium.
Now
to be absolutely fair to these establishments, they all offer lower
calorie menus. Carrabba's has a number of dishes that clock in at
fewer than 600 calories and Olive Garden has begun serving small
plates that are far more reasonable than their regular fare. But
therein lies the issue: when it comes to real Italian food, it should
all be
small plates.
Food
is an intrinsic element of Italian culture. Italians eat often and
they eat well. But they do not eat like pigs. There are no places
that offer “all you can eat” in Italy. Restaurants do not serve
“endless” this or “bottomless” that. People who participate
in such behavior are rightly frowned upon as gluttons. Or Americans.
Only in America do we gauge success by excess. Only in the United
States is value determined by size. Early Italian immigrants were
astounded by the plenitude of foodstuffs available to them in their
new country. Such abundance was not only unobtainable back in the Old
World, it was unthinkable. Especially meat. Having meat on a daily
basis was an extravagance afforded only to the very rich. Wanting to
establish the fact that they had “arrived” and were prosperous,
many newly-minted Italian-Americans began to capitalize on this
bounty, and so the concept of Italian-American food was born in the
old Italian-American neighborhoods. Non-Italians who ventured into
their city's version of “Little Italy” immediately assumed this
was the way all Italians ate and “abbondanza”
became synonymous with Italian food.
And so
my friends in the restaurant business are forced by economic
necessity to perpetuate the stereotype. If they don't serve endless
salads and breadsticks and bottomless bowls of soup and heaping
platters of spaghetti and meatballs like the chain places do, they
risk going under. After a hundred years of exposure, Americans are
conditioned to these things and expect them when they walk into an
“Italian” restaurant.
When
people think about healthy eating, one diet comes to the forefront:
the Mediterranean diet. Unlike the typical Western diet, the
Mediterranean diet de-emphasizes meat and meat products. It is based
principally on consumption of fish and seafood, legumes, unrefined
cereal grains, olive oil, fruits, vegetables, and dairy products like
cheese and yogurt. The diet also promotes moderate wine consumption.
And guess what, folks? That is
the essence of the true Italian diet. It's not about piling enough
pasta for six people on a plate, drowning it in a gallon of red
sauce, and serving it up to one person. It doesn't center on seeing
how much crap you can slap on an enormous pizza. Real Italian food is
about quality ingredients prepared in a healthy manner and served in
moderate portions.
Bottom
line: Is Italian food fattening? No. Not the real stuff. Not
traditional Italian food eaten the way countless generations of
Italians have eaten it. If you're eating out at a so-called “Italian”
restaurant in America, order the child's plate. And then only eat
half of it. You'll be about right. Look for things you can't
pronounce. They'll probably be more authentic than the stuff you're
familiar with. Drink water instead of soda. If you're cooking at
home, cut down the portion sizes. Ditch the butter and and amp up the
olive oil. Leave the cow and go for the fish. Again, drink water.
Whether you're eating out at a restaurant or dining in at home,
remember it's not the quantity of the food on the plate that makes
the difference, it's the quality. Forget about “abbondanza”
and
concentrate on “la qualità.”
It
will change your life and your outlook on Italian food.
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