Why We Do It and How to Stop It
I just read an article in which the
author waxed rhapsodic over the virtues of onion goggles. In case
you're not up to speed with the concept, these are actual goggles
designed to fit tightly over your eyes when you chop an onion, the
purpose being to keep you from tearing up. Apparently, they're all
the rage and even come in cool designer colors.
My first reaction was, “Yikes! What a
wimp!” Then I realized I was being unfair; just because I don't
cry over chopped onions doesn't mean that it's not a problem for some
people. I'm not sure it's such a problem that I'd shell out twenty
bucks for funky looking eyewear, but, again, that's just me. So, why
do some people get all weepy when chopping onions while some people
don't? And what can those who do do about it, short of popping for a
set of dedicated – and silly-looking – goggles?
Okay, we've all
seen the cartoon chefs crying rivers of tears as they cut up onions,
but does that actually happen in real life or is it just a corny
comedic device? The answer is, it depends on your sensitivity to the
chemical elements involved. Onions contain a complex combination of
acids and enzymes within their cell structure. When you cut into an
onion, you open up those cells and all hell breaks loose. Amino acid
sulfoxides reform into sulfenic acids that combine with an enzyme
called allinase to produce a volatile sulfur compound called
Propanethiol S-oxide. The more you cut, the more cells you rupture
and the more sulfur compound you release into the air. The gaseous
compounds in the air interact with the moisture in your eyes to form
a mild sulfuric acid that irritates your eyes and stimulates tear
production to wash it away. Once the onions are cooked, the enzymes
are deactivated, so no more tears. But in the meantime.....
On the good news
front, Vidalia and other sweet varieties of onion have higher
concentrations of sugar and water that serve to dilute the offending
enzymes. Scientists have even developed a “no-tears” onion that
is grown in low-sulfur soil. But if you're using plain old yellow
onions and their sharp, tangy cousins, you're in for a crying jag if
your eyes are particularly sensitive to the sulfuric gas. Mine
aren't, but my wife's are, so guess who gets to chop onions in my
kitchen?
You may ask, “Why
are your eyes less sensitive than hers?” And I'll tell you: contact
lenses. Contacts sit on the front surfaces of your eyes, in front of
the cornea where most of the affected nerves are located. So in the
first place, they form a sort of protective barrier. Also, because
people who wear contacts are accustomed to having “foreign bodies”
in their eyes, they naturally produce more tears to keep flushing
away the stuff that builds up on the contacts. That's why lens
wearers tend to blink more often. And that's why the mild sulfuric
compound doesn't affect them as much; between the barrier effect and
the tear production, the irritating gas never gets to the surface of
the eye.
So,
other than getting your contact-wearing spouse or friend to cut up
your onions, what do you do? The very first defense against
onion-induced tears is a very sharp
knife. Slicing cleanly through the onion cells will produce fewer
irritants than crushing them. I was helping a friend prepare a
casserole the other day and the alleged knife she handed me to cut
onions with mashed them more than it cut it them. I could tell by the
smell that anybody else would have been standing in a puddle of
tears. I don't carry my Victorinox chef's knife with me everywhere.
Maybe I should.
Another slick
cutting trick involves minimizing your exposure to the freshly-cut
cells. When you make that first cut, turn the two halves of the onion
cut side down against the board. And try to do that with subsequent
cuts, too. It'll really help. So will removing the chopped onions
from the vicinity. Don't try to cut them all into a heaping, reeking
pile right under your eyes and nose. As you work, scrape the chopped
pieces into a bowl and move it off to the side. You may not look as
much like Julia Child, but you'll look a lot less like those cartoon
chefs.
A
simple trick if you want to keep your eyes dry is to start with
chilled onions. Cold inhibits the evaporation rate of the irritating
gas. Don't keep your
onions in the refrigerator or you'll be very disappointed with the
results. But it's okay to stick the ones you're preparing to cut in
there for 15 or 20 minutes.
If you've got a
vent hood over your stove, turn it on “high” and cut your onions
near it. The vapors will get sucked up before they get to you. Even
working under a ceiling fan will help.
Now, there are some
tips and tricks circulating out there that make me go “hmmmmm.”
I've never tried any of them, but I'll repeat them here for the sake
of keeping good urban legends going. Feel free to give any or all of
them a shot.
The most common
advice of this type is to cut your onion under or near running water.
I can see why “under” would work, but I'm not so sure about
“near.” I'm also not sure I want to dilute the onion flavor by
holding it under running water. And I'm definitely not sure about
trying to control the cut pieces as they scatter through the standing
water or get blasted by the running stream. Another watery tip says
to have a kettle or pot of boiling water near your cutting area. The
steam supposedly helps dissipate the vapors.
Some people swear
by breathing through the mouth while cutting onions. Theoretically,
the gas sticks to your wet tongue and bypasses your olfactory nerves.
I think this theory is all wet because it's the nerves in your eyes
that get irritated, not the ones in your nose. Admittedly, the two
are somewhat interconnected and sucking up onion fumes through your nose is
not especially pleasant, but that's not where the tears come from.
However, if you want to be a mouth-breather, you have my blessing.
You might also like
the tip that involves lighting a candle near where you're cutting the
onion. The theory is that the flame will burn off the fumes before
they get to you. I don't buy it, but if you pick a nice scented
candle, at least your kitchen won't smell like onions. And if you're
Catholic, lighting a candle never hurts, anyway.
Another weird wives
tale says to leave the root intact because the root is where all the
bad stuff is. Wrong. The entire onion is made up of “bad stuff.”
Yeah, there might be more of a concentration of it near the root, but
it's still in other parts of the onion, too. There is a legitimate
point to leaving the root intact: it makes the onion easier to cut
and chop.
Chewing gum or
sticking a piece of bread in your mouth while chopping away are a
couple of methods I've seen recommended but for the life of me, can't
figure out why.
Finally,
there's those goofy goggles. Yes, they really work. No, I'm not going
to pay twenty bucks for them. I don't care about
the designer colors. A cheap pair of swimming or safety
goggles will work just as well. But remember to take them off before
you leave the kitchen. Otherwise, you'll amuse the adults and
frighten the children and small animals.
Of
course, if you really want
to be on the safe side, you could cut up cold onions under running
water with a fan going and a candle burning next to a steaming
teakettle while wearing goggles and breathing through your open mouth
into which you have inserted a piece of bread. Oh, and did I mention
whistling? Some people say whistling helps. And you might do it while
standing on one foot. That has nothing to do with onions, but it
would increase ticket sales.
Now
that's entertainment!
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