Restaurant Chain Sacrifices Flavor to
Save Money on POTS!
I knew it, I knew it, I KNEW it!
Time and again, when
circumstances have led me to eat at Olive Garden, I have complained
to the waitstaff about the unseasoned blandness of the pasta. I've
said it again and again, “It's like they're not putting enough salt
in the water. Turns out I was right!
In a
report released by Starboard Value, an investor in Olive Garden's
parent company, Darden, it is stated that in order to get an extended
warranty on its pots, Olive Garden no longer salts the
pasta cooking water! Did you get
that? In order to get an extended warranty on
POTS, the brilliant minds behind the “modern taste of Italy” have
opted to ruin the quality of their food. The report opines,
"This appalling decision shows just how little regard management
has for delivering a quality experience to guests."
Every
single Italian cook I know – as well as all the married ones –
will emphatically tell you that the first step, the very first and
most essential step in cooking pasta is salting the water in which
the pasta cooks. You cannot – underline cannot
– impart flavor to pasta any
other way. Salting the water allows pasta to be seasoned internally
as it swells, releases starch, and absorbs water. Once the pasta has
cooked, no amount of salting at the table will give it flavor. It'll
just taste salty.
Most Italian
cookbooks use words like “generous” when it comes to salting the
water. Mario Batali advocates “aggressive” salting. Many cooks
say the cooking water should taste “like the sea.” The rule of
thumb is about one tablespoon of salt per quart of water. That would
be four tablespoons, or about a quarter cup, per gallon. Some cooks
go with a tablespoon per two quarts, or about two tablespoons per
gallon. Personally, I split the difference and use three tablespoons
per gallon. People who use a teaspoon or a pinch or no salt at all
because it's “healthier” are just deluding themselves.
There are 28,319 mg
of sodium in a quarter-cup of salt. When you dump it into four quarts
of water and add dried pasta, the pasta only absorbs about three
percent of the sodium. The rest goes down the drain. Assuming you're
eating pasta like a normal person, i.e. a two-ounce serving, that's a
little less than 300 mg of sodium out of your recommended 2,300 mg
daily limit. Even less if you only use three tablespoons of salt,
like I do. Eliminate the salt and you eliminate the flavor. Like
Olive Garden does.
The rationale here
is that salting water can cause pitting in stainless steel surfaces.
There's a mile-long scientific explanation, but it boils down to –
pardon the pun – the interaction between the chloride in sodium
chloride (salt), oxygen in water, and chromium in stainless steel.
And once the pot is pitted, it's pitted. Of course, you can avoid the
problem by letting the water come to a full, rolling boil before
adding the salt. But that would make too much sense. Better to 86 the
salt – and the flavor – and preserve the pot. The crowned heads
at Darden long ago figured out that nobody who eats at Olive Garden
would know good Italian food if it bit them in the ass anyway, so
they figure they've got nothing to lose by further desecrating their
flavors in order to save a few shekels on cookware.
Other
chain Italian places, like Maggiano's and Carrabba's, must get better
deals on their pots, because they aren't afraid to add salt to their
pasta cooking water. Which probably accounts for why both of them
were rated higher than Olive Garden in recent national surveys. Of
all the ludicrous excuses I've heard for pinching a few pennies,
fundamentally changing the nature and quality of your primary product
in order to get a better deal on pots has
got to be the stupidest and most shortsighted one out there. Okay,
Italians, say it with me: Uffa! Che schifo!
Come
on, Olive Garden. Tell me again how you “aim to make every guest
experience feel more like modern Italy.” If bland, flavorless,
badly cooked pasta is
an example of “modern Italy,” I'll take old Italy any day.
You know what might
be fun? And I'm just a big enough jerk to do it? Next time you go to
Olive Garden, bring your own pot and say, “Here. I don't want to
ruin your pots, so cook my pasta in this. And use plenty of salt.”
Wonder what they'd do. They'd probably cite health code restrictions,
but it would be fun to try. And it might deliver a message to
management about their “focus on flavor that is uniquely Italian.”
It may be unique, alright, but it's definitely not Italian.
Saving money on pots by not salting pasta water??? One of the most stupid ideas ever!!!
ReplyDeleteThank you for your articles that you have shared with us. Hopefully you can give the article a good benefit to us. Authentic italian minestrone soup recipes
ReplyDeleteThe only food item that has ANY kind of taste at Olive Garden is their bread sticks 🍞 I ate their once over 20 years ago and never went back🤢🤮 It's a shame they make the food look so good in the commercials when in reality it's ALL bland and unseasoned🥵🤥😴😩😱
ReplyDelete*there*
ReplyDelete