A Simple, Versatile Dish That Adds
Variety to Your Menu
I love gnocchi. I've made them twice
just in the last couple of weeks. I made Gnocchi alla Sorrentina for
dinner one evening. I wound up with more gnocchi than I needed, but
they were great with sage butter the next day. Then I did a batch
that served as a bed for a Sunday chicken and vegetable plate with a
nice pan sauce. Gnocchi are simple and delicious and are just unique
enough on the American table to add a little “wow” factor when
you serve them.
Let's start with what they are.
Basically, gnocchi are Italian dumplings. Like a lot of Italian
creations, they have different names in different regions, but the
method of preparation is pretty much the same. Like pasta, gnocchi is
considered a first course, or primo piatto. You
can serve them in a sauce as a stand-alone course, you can put them
in soup, or you can use them as a bed, as I did with the chicken and
vegetables. Although sometimes seen as a form of pasta, Italians consider gnocchi to
be an alternative to pasta and place them in a category by
themselves.
The word “gnocchi” is the plural
form of “gnocco.” In the same way you can't have a “panini”
or a “ravioli,” you can't have a “gnocchi.” You can have a
gnocco or you can have a bunch of gnocchi. And the “gn”
combination in Italian sounds like the letters “ny” in the
English word “canyon.” So, it's not pronounced “NOH-kee.”
It's “NYOHK-kee.” Actually, there's a subtle difference in the
rendering of the “o” sound that a lot of English-speakers can't
get their mouths to make, so “NYOHK-kee” is generally close
enough. Italians will know what you mean. Unless you say something
silly like “guh-NOH-kee,” in which case they'll just laugh at
you.
You can make gnocchi out of a lot of
things. You can make it out of flour and water alone, either wheat
flour or semolina. You can also use flour and eggs as you would a
pasta dough. You can make it with ricotta cheese. You can throw
spinach in it. There are lots of variations. But the most common
preparation is the classic potato gnocchi, popular in Abruzzo,
Veneto, Friuli-Venezia Giulia and many other parts of Italy. Pre-made
potato gnocchi are available in dried, refrigerated, and frozen forms
in most supermarkets and Italian specialty shops, but nothing beats
the fresh, homemade kind.
To do it right, you do need one special
piece of equipment: a ricer. I use my ricer all the time for mashed
potatoes, hash browns......every application where potatoes need to
be processed in order to be light, fluffy, and dry. A ricer looks
kind of like an overgrown garlic press and is fairly inexpensive at
most kitchen stores or online suppliers. If you want to be really
fancy, you can also buy yourself a gnocchi board for the final
forming process. They cost about five bucks and you can find them in
kitchen stores and online, too. But a board is not as essential as a
ricer. You can use an ordinary table fork to make ridges in your
gnocchi.
Okay. Here's la ricetta:
Gnocchi di
Patate
(Potato Gnocchi)
1 1/2 lbs russet potatoes
1 cup all-purpose flour
1 large egg
a pinch of salt
1 or 2 tbsp olive oil
Peel and quarter the potatoes and drop
them into a large pot with enough water to cover them by a couple of
inches. Bring the water to a boil and cook the potatoes until they
are soft when pierced with the tip of a knife, about 20 to 30
minutes. Drain. While still warm, pass them through a ricer onto a
clean working surface.
Bring 4 or 5 quarts of salted water to
boil in a large pot. Set up an ice bath (a large bowl of ice and
water) near the boiling water.
Make a well in the center of the riced
potatoes and sprinkle all over with flour. Place the egg and the salt
in the center of the well and using a fork, stir the egg into the
flour and potatoes, just like making regular pasta dough. Once the
egg is mixed in, bring the dough together, kneading gently until a large ball is formed. Knead gently for another 4 or 5 minutes or until the
ball is fairly dry to the touch. Add extra flour in very small
increments if the dough is too wet or tacky and add small amounts of
water if it is too dry. Allow the dough to rest for a few minutes.
Cut off a golf ball-sized piece from
the main dough ball and, using your palms, roll it into a 3/4-inch
diameter dowel about 12 inches long. Cut the dowel into 1-inch long
pieces. Roll the pieces down the gnocchi board, if using, or flick
them off the tines of a fork, creating a ridged, elongated shell
shape.
Drop these formed pieces into the
boiling water and cook them just until they float, 1 or 2 minutes.
Meanwhile, continue the process with the remaining dough. As the
gnocchi float to the surface of the boiling water, use a slotted
spoon to remove them to the ice bath. Continue until all the gnocchi
have cooled. Drain them from the ice water and place them in a large
bowl. Toss the gnocchi with a tablespoon or two of olive oil to
lightly coat. The gnocchi can now be stored in the refrigerator in a
covered container until you are ready to serve them. (Up to 48
hours.)
To serve, heat whatever sauce you are
using in a large pan, then add the gnocchi to the pan for a minute or
two, gently stirring occasionally to allow them to warm through and
absorb the flavors of the sauce.
Serves 6
Notes: Russet potatoes work best with
this recipe because they are a dry, flaky, high-starch potato.
Mario Batali likes to leave his potatoes in the peel when he cooks them. He peels and quarters them after they are cooked. Mario says it adds to the flavor and aids in keeping excess moisture out. He's probably right. But more people do it my way, largely because it's easier and faster. Your choice.
If you absolutely don't have a ricer,
you can mash the boiled potatoes with a fork, but make sure they are
very dry and don't overmash them. They'll get gluey and make for a
very dense finished product.
The dough can get sticky as you work
it; to avoid this, roll out the dowels of dough on a lightly-floured
surface. But be careful of adding too much flour as you work the
dough. It can change the texture and character of the finished
product and cause the gnocchi to fall apart in the boiling water.
Don't sweat the shape. They don't have
to be machine perfect. The technique takes practice. Just make sure
they have ridges and are relatively uniform in size so they'll cook
evenly.
You can skip the ice bath if you plan
to cook and serve the gnocchi immediately. They can go right from the
board (or fork) into boiling water and then directly into whatever
preparation you are making. I like to make them up a little in
advance because they are easier to handle once they have cooled and
set a bit.
Buon appetito!
Thank you for a great recipe - will make them tonight!
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