A New Pan for My Pot Rack
I've always been a huge fan of durable,
economical cast iron cookware. It lives in my kitchen among my
expensive stainless steel stuff and my fancy anodized aluminum
non-stick pans. I have a cast iron skillet that is so well-seasoned
nothing sticks to it. I have
a cast iron griddle, a cast iron grill pan, and my essential
ceramic-coated cast iron Dutch oven. All are made by Lodge and all
are older than dirt. I've had my cast iron skillet for more than
thirty years. And they're all dirt cheap, as well. My entire cast
iron collection costs less than a single All-Clad stainless steel
saute pan.
And now the folks
in South Pittsburg, Tennessee have gone and done it again. They've
developed a new line of cookware constructed of seasoned carbon
steel. Made in the USA of 100% 12-gauge carbon steel, these new pans
are phenomenal. They are every bit as tough and durable as their cast
iron cousins. They can easily withstand the use and abuse of
professional kitchens but because they are significantly lighter,
they are perfect for the home cook who often complains that cast iron
is too heavy.
There is nothing
these new steel pans can't do. The unsurpassed cooking performance of
steel allows for perfect browning, searing, and braising. It heats
more quickly than cast iron, but retains temperature just as well.
You can use these pans on all cooking surfaces from induction
cooktops to campfires, and they can go right from stovetop to oven or
broiler.
These things are
chef-tested and the design and construction are superior. A nice
smooth cooking surface and low sides make sauteing easy. The
ergonomic handles are triple-riveted with steel rivets and they are a
bit longer than the handles on traditional cast iron pans. To my
touch, the handles don't get as hot as quickly as cast iron handles
do, but don't go by me; I have asbestos hands. They sell special
silicone sleeves to fit over the handles, or you can just use a pot
holder.
The new cookware
comes in a variety of shapes and sizes. The skillets are available in
8”, 10”, 12”, and 15” sizes. They also have an 11” diameter
round griddle pan, a rectangular 10”x18” griddle, and a 12”
square grilling pan. I started with the cheapest – the 8” skillet
– but I can definitely see some of the other pieces in my future.
Like all Lodge products, the quality will not cost you a month's
wages. I bought my pan at a Lodge factory store for about $40, but
you can find even better deals online. Amazon's got them for $30. Watch out for shipping,
though; fees may outweigh savings.
A couple of
caveats: The Lodge folks call these products “seasoned” and say
they are pre-seasoned at the foundry using soy oil. Okay. But don't
expect non-stick performance right off the shelf. I hand washed my
new toy as recommended and hit it with a light rub of oil. Then I
cooked some bacon. The results were not good. And I wasn't cooking
cheap, flimsy supermarket bacon. The manufacturer will tell you right
up front that the seasoning will improve as you use the product, but
don't expect miraculous results the first couple of times. After the
bacon incident, I actually seasoned my new pan the way I would cast
iron and the next use was much improved.
And although
stainless steel is non-reactive, carbon steel is largely made of
iron, so you still have to be careful about cooking acidic foods. A
couple of chefs have commented that tomatoes and red wine are
problematic in carbon steel.
Overall, two thumbs
up for the new Lodge seasoned carbon steel cookware. Whether you're a
beginning cook or a “seasoned” pro, I think you'll like it. I
know I do.
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