Advertising Agencies Are Not Your
Friends
You've probably heard by now that food
labels are getting a makeover, the first such overhaul in more than
twenty years. The biggest change will be to serving sizes. For years
now, a 20-ounce bottle of soda has contained 2.5 servings. Right.
Like that's realistic. Everybody stops drinking when they hit the
8-ounce mark, don't they? That way they only consume 130 calories and
32 grams of sugar, like it says on the label. Under the new
guidelines, one bottle will equal one serving. And you won't have
to squint anymore to find the calorie count; it'll jump right out at you
in bigger print – all 325 calories plus 80 grams of sugar. The
change that has the processed food pushers squirming the most is the
one that will require the label to clearly list how much added sugar
the product contains. No more guesswork about what is a naturally
occurring sugar and what the manufacturer has added.
If you've read much of my writing,
you'll know that I'm really big on reading labels. If the ingredient
list reads like the answer sheet to a graduate level chemistry exam,
avoid the product. But there are some less obvious things to watch
for on food product labels. Beyond just reading, you have to
understand and recognize things that manufacturers try to slip by you
in the hope you won't notice you're being bamboozled.
Perhaps the biggest bamboozle is the
word “natural.” Here's the lowdown straight from the FDA: “From
a food science perspective, it is difficult to define a food product
that is 'natural' because the food has probably been processed and is
no longer the product of the earth. That said, FDA has not developed
a definition for use of the term natural or its derivatives. However,
the agency has not objected to the use of the term if the food does
not contain added color, artificial flavors, or synthetic
substances.”
You get that? Amidst the gobbledygook
is the fact that the government agency that allegedly regulates our
food supply has its lips so firmly attached to the nether regions of
processed food producers that it really doesn't have a codified
definition of the word “natural.” According to them, they don't
“object” to a product being labeled “natural” as long as it
doesn't contain anything blatantly unnatural.
For example, high fructose corn syrup
is a “natural” product. Just ask the Corn Refiners Association
that promotes the stuff. I'm sorry, but chemically engineered
cornstarch does not fit my definition of a natural ingredient. And
yet, the FDA allows it in almost everything you put in your mouth
these days. They afford it GRAS status. That means “Generally
Recognized As Safe.” Here's how the FDA describes HFCS in Title 21,
Vol. 3, Part 184, Subpart B, Sec. 184.1866:
High fructose corn
syrup, a sweet, nutritive saccharide mixture containing either
approximately 42 or 55 percent fructose, is prepared as a clear
aqueous solution from high dextrose-equivalent corn starch
hydrolysate by partial enzymatic conversion of glucose (dextrose) to
fructose using an insoluble glucose isomerase enzyme preparation
described in 184.1372. The product containing more than 50 percent
fructose (dry weight) is prepared through concentration of the
fructose portion of the mixture containing less than 50 percent
fructose.
My,
doesn't that sound natural? And yet, when the FDA tried to grow a
pair back in '08 and say that calling HFCS “natural” was
“deceptive and misleading,” their overlords at the Corn Refiners
Association slapped them back into submission and they reversed their
decision.
How
about “caramel coloring?” That's natural, right? Once upon a
time, yes. Back when they made it by simply heating sugar until it
turned brown. But not when they mix the sugar with ammonium compounds
that produce a potentially toxic byproduct called 4-Methylimidazole
or 4-MEI, a byproduct associated with other “natural” words like
“carcinogenic” and “convulsant.” Industry pooh-poohers say,
“Oh, but you'd have to drink massive amounts of caramel colored
soft drinks to suffer any ill effects.” Guess that's why they've
been quietly reducing the amount of the stuff they slip in your soda
since the word about 4-MEI got out.
Have
you ever seen “carrageenan” on a food label? Yeah, I didn't know
what it was either. But the FDA says it's “GRAS,” so it must be
alright, right? It's a seaweed derivative, specifically red algae,
mostly found in dairy products and it's used to keep ingredients from
separating. By the way, carrageenan is also found in “personal
lubricants.” Think about that one next time you eat some ice cream
containing this “natural” ingredient. Anyway, the battling
“experts” are currently trying to determine whether or not
carrageenan contributes to inflammation, profound glucose
intolerance, impaired insulin action, and a number of other nasty
things. At this point, the smart money seems to be on avoiding the
stuff. Even the ever-courageous FDA has this to say in it's final
paragraph on the substance: “The
Select Committee has weighed the foregoing and concludes that: While
no evidence in the available information on undegraded carrageenan
demonstrates a hazard to the public when it is used at levels that
are now current and in the manner now practiced, uncertainties exist
requiring that additional studies should be conducted.”
In
other words, go with the smart money. Avoid the stuff.
Look
for “palm oil” in a lot of your snack food items. Manufacturers
started putting it in there when the hammer came down on trans-fats
and partially hydrogenated vegetable oils. All they did was
substitute one potentially harmful substance for another, but the
substituted substance at least sounds
natural.
Palm oil kind of makes you think of palm trees swaying in the
tropical breeze. And it's actually made from a variety of palm tree,
the oil palm. But it's not health food. True, it is slightly less
saturated than butter and contains no trans-fats, but it's still a
form of saturated fat, capable of jacking up your LDL if you eat
enough of it. And you're eating enough of it. The United States
imported about 2.7 billion pounds of the stuff in 2013. Which leads
to another issue; an environmental one. Increased demand for palm oil
has resulted in massive destruction of tropical forests in places
like Indonesia, where the clear-cutting has reached 18 million acres,
up from just over a half-million acres in the 1980's. So is palm oil
a natural product? Yes. But it's not a particularly healthy one,
especially not for Mother Nature. You really need to stick with
liquid fats like canola and vegetable oils.
You
know, the Corn Refiners Association tried to do a nifty end run
around the term “high fructose corn syrup” when that term came
under increased public scrutiny. They wanted the FDA to let them call
their product “corn sugar” instead. Somehow, the agency found a
couple of vertebrae and said, “No.” But that doesn't seem to be
the case with “evaporated cane juice.” You know what “evaporated
cane juice” really is? Sugar. Plain old processed, refined, white
sugar with an uptown moniker. After raw cane sugar has been boiled
down, the leftover crystals are scraped up and processed just a
little more, taking out whatever nutritive value they might still
possess. The resultant “evaporated” product is then added to
things that call themselves “100% natural” or “100% juice.”
Yeah, the FDA has sent out a few warning letters, but the
manufacturers are still tap dancing. If you don't like the tune,
don't buy the product.
“Made
with.....”. That's a good one. You see a package that says, “Made
With Healthy Stuff!” And then you read the label; the “healthy
stuff” for which you bought the product turns out to be the
eleventh ingredient in a twelve ingredient list. But it's in there!
So the manufacturer can legally say, “made with.”
You're
watching your sugar intake, okay? And you spot a product that says
“Lightly Sweetened” on the front of the package. That's got to
mean less sugar, right? Wrong. The FDA actually regulates the use of
“sugar free” and “no added sugars,” but it has nothing
whatsoever to say about “low sugar” or “lightly sweetened.”
So if a processed food manufacturer's advertising department wants to
stick a big “Lightly Sweetened” banner across the face of a
product to which ten pounds of sugar or ten pounds of artificial
sweeteners has been added, the FDA has to let them do it. But if you
read the label, you don't have to buy it.
Face
it, folks, ad people are not employed to monitor or improve your
health. They are hired to sell products. To that end, they will use
any and all tricks of the trade with which they can legally get by.
And even then, they often push the limits. They don't care whether or
not a product is really “heart-healthy.” As long as nobody calls
them on it, they'll say it because they correctly believe you'll buy
it. And they'll throw every buzzword in the books at you.
“Antioxidants.” “Fiber.” “Polyphenols.” “Whole Grains.”
“Doctor Approved.” “Strengthens Your Immune System.” “Light.”
“Reduced.” “Free.” I especially like “Gluten Free.”
Because a bunch of misinformed celebrities and celebrity-wannabes got
the idea that avoiding gluten was a good way to lose weight, they
started a fad. And there's nothing marketers like more than a good
fad. So they began plastering every blessed thing in the grocery
store with “Gluten Free!” labels, even things that couldn't
possibly contain gluten in the first place. But if you're a
non-Celiac sufferer who thinks that by avoiding gluten you'll be
healthier, happier, sexier, thinner, and just a better all-around
person because Oprah said so, you'll buy anything that says “Gluten
Free.”
I went
to nursing school many years ago and among the required courses in
the curriculum was a unit on nutrition. I think comprehensive
nutrition classes ought to be mandatory at the high school level.
Agriculture students are taught to recognize bovine excrement and how
to avoid stepping in it. It's a skill I think everybody should learn.
It's not enough to just read the label on a food product; you have to
understand what you're reading. For instance, anything that ends in
“ose” is a sugar. If you are an educated consumer and you see
“low sugar” advertised on a package and then find the ingredient
label of said “low sugar” product to be full of maltose, sucrose,
dextrose, glucose, etc., you'll recognize bovine excrement and avoid
stepping in it.
Here's
the takeaway in three simple statements: Read the label, understand
what you're reading, and remember, manufacturers of processed foods,
their advertising agencies, and their paid politicians are not your
friends.
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