“Finish Cooking Your Pasta IN THE
G**D*** SAUCE”
Everybody knows that professional chefs
and experienced cooks have a few tricks up their sleeves which enable
them to elevate simple fare to a level unachievable by mere mortal
cooks. Wanting to discover some of these tricks, a curious Reddit
user recently posited the question: "Chefs of Reddit, what
mistakes are we lay people all making in the kitchen?"
The answers were pretty straightforward
– don't try to catch a falling knife, measure before you start
cooking, don't try to put out a grease fire with water. Common sense
stuff. But there was one answer I can really get behind and push into
the collective consciousness of every home cook and faux-Italian
restaurant cook in these here United States; “Add sauce to your
pasta before finishing cooking.” Or as Reddit user Wahpaw more
colorfully expressed it, “Finish cooking your pasta IN THE GOD DAMN
SAUCE.”
I do not know nor will I ever
understand from whence came the practice of cooking up a heaping pile
of naked pasta, slapping it onto a cold dinner plate, then pouring
about a quart of runny red sauce over the top of it. You see it
everywhere and it's just got to STOP! Moms
cooking spaghetti for your families, stop it! Volunteers
cooking for church or civic functions, stop it! Restaurant
cooks, especially you “Italian” cooks, basta! Do
you not realize you are crushing the Italian soul? The only thing you
could do that would be worse – and you're also doing it, believe me
– would be to break up the pasta before you cook it and then to
further desecrate it by piling it on a plate, drowning it in horrible
sauce, and cutting it into tiny little bite-size pieces before
stuffing it in your face. If a fairy drops dead every time someone
says, “I don't believe in fairies,” I am warning you an Italian
suffers the same fate every time you mistreat spaghetti.
From
time to time we have the opportunity to teach relatively informal
“hands-on” classes on various aspects of Italian cooking. We have
a few studenti we are
mentoring right now, in fact, and the very first lesson involved
cooking and serving a proper spaghetti dinner. I started by busting
every myth to which they had been exposed and by utterly eradicating
everything their mothers had taught them or that they might have
otherwise observed in local restaurants with names that end in
vowels. A pinch of salt in a quart of water is not enough;
don't ever put oil in
the water or on the cooked pasta; don't rinse
the pasta in cold water; don't break
spaghetti in half before you cook it and don't cut it up after you
plate it; and above all, don't throw
naked hot spaghetti on a cold plate, dump a gallon of lukewarm sauce
on top of it, and then cover it in salt, pepper, and grated “crap
in a can” fake Parmesan. If this is the way you are accustomed to
eating spaghetti, it is high time for you to start a new custom.
Before you tell me
“well, that's the way the real authentic Italian restaurant down
the street does it,” let me tell you something about most “real,
authentic” Italian restaurants: they cater to their customer's
tastes. That means they dumb down their menus for your benefit. I
have several Italian friends in the restaurant business. I'm not
talking about second or third or fourth-generation Italian-Americans.
These are people born and raised in Italy. When I ask them why they
serve exaggerated heaping portions of inauthentic gawdawful
Italian-American dishes that would never, ever be found in their
kitchens or on their tables at home, their answer is always the same;
“If we cook in the restaurant like we do at home, the people would
just go to Olive Garden.”
I'm not going to
give you the whole “spaghetti dinner” master class here. What I
am going to do, however, is reiterate the “Finish cooking your
pasta in the sauce” rule.
Assuming
you do everything else right – plenty of water, plenty of salt, no
oil, no breaky the pasta – cook your pasta to just shy of al
dente. I realize in addition to
being a foreign phrase, that may be a foreign concept to many of you,
so here's a simpler way to say it; cook your spaghetti about a minute
or two less than what the package directions tell you. Reason? It'll
finish cooking in the sauce.
Don't
dump your cooked pasta into a colander and drain it desert dry. A
little cooking water clinging to the noodles is a good
thing. Reason? It helps evenly
distribute the sauce. If I'm not cooking large quantities of pasta in
big pots with special inserts, I just fish the pasta out with tongs
or with one of those specially designed spaghetti server things.
Either way, the noodles are a little wet when I drop them in the
sauce. And I also reserve about cup of the cooking water on the side.
Reason? It can be used later to help develop the flavor and texture
of the sauce.
Now, there's a pot
or pan of sauce already simmering on the stove. Meat sauce or plain
tomato sauce; doesn't matter. Cream sauce or butter sauce; doesn't
matter. Whatever sauce you're using, it should be hot and ready to
receive the pasta. When you remove the pasta from the water by
whatever means you choose, drop it directly into the waiting,
simmering pot or pan of sauce. Add anywhere from a few tablespoons to
a fraction of a cup of the reserved water and start stirring. Reason?
You're sealing in the flavor.
A lot of nifty physical and chemical
stuff happens when pasta cooks. Pasta is just flour, egg, and water.
This means it's nothing more than a glutinous matrix of starches and
proteins. Dried pasta, obviously, has had a lot of its moisture
removed. When you drop it in hot water, several things happen.
When the dehydrated starch molecules get warm, they start to absorb
moisture. They rehydrate. Eventually, they kind of over-hydrate and
burst open, releasing their starches. That's why pasta sticks like a
mad thing if you don't have enough water. At the same time, however,
the noodles are also absorbing flavor from the surrounding liquid.
That's why you need salty water. If there isn't adequate salt in the
cooking water, the finished product will be flat and bland. You can
dump salt on cooked pasta until it gags you and all you'll get is
overly salty pasta. It won't have a nice delicate flavor because the
little flavor absorbing molecules are already done absorbing and have
sealed up. That's also why you finish cooking pasta in the sauce –
or the goddamn sauce, if you're Reddit user Wahpaw. Cooking it for
that final minute or two in the warm sauce will enable the pasta –
with it's little flavor absorbing molecules still operating – to
better absorb the flavor of the sauce. That's something it can't do
if it's been drained and dumped on a plate and had sauce poured over
the top of it. Stir as you might, the sauce will never
incorporate as completely. And
you'll never get the same flavor and texture. It will never be a
harmonious marriage of pasta and sauce. It will always be just a
furtive affair of the two trying to come together. Sounds kind of sad
and pathetic when you put it that way, doesn't it? That's because
spaghetti cooked and served that way IS sad and pathetic!
So stop it! Basta!
Seriously,
finishing in sauce is the most authentically Italian way to cook
pasta, it's the most authentically Italian way to serve pasta, and it
is definitely the way to enjoy the most authentically Italian flavor
in your pasta. Never mind the way your third-generation mother did it
and forget about Frankie down at “Nunzio's.” Hell, even Chef
Boy-Ar-Dee cooks the sauce and the pasta together. Do yourself a
favor and a flavor; finish cooking your pasta in the sauce. You'll
taste the difference.
Buon appetito!
So brushing Olive oil on pasta (or white rice) before putting it in water is a no no? I had heard that was the way to stop it from sticking, but you are saying, it's not the oil factor but the amount of water added to the pan, correct?
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