Simple and Delicious
Whenever most Americans think of
Italian food, especially pasta dishes, more often than not images of
heaping piles of noodles buried under a quart of red sauce come to
mind. And that's unfortunate because it is so stereotypical and so
inaccurate.
To be sure, Italians love their pasta,
often eating it twice a day. But the love affair with tomato sauce
does not run so deep. In fact, a great many of the pasta dishes
Italians frequently enjoy are made with nothing more than olive oil
or butter, cheese, and a few herbs, spices, and seasonings. Served in
moderate portions, they are light, satisfying, and delicious.
Pasta Cacio e Pepe is one such dish. A
favorite in Rome, “cacio e pepe” simply means “cheese and
pepper.” And that's all there is to this wonderful dish. It is usually
made with long, thin pasta, such as spaghetti or linguine. The Roman
classic is often made with tonnarelli, a kind of square spaghetti better known,
perhaps, by its popular Abruzzese name, “spaghetti alla chitarra.”
It's a fresh made pasta not usually found in supermarkets, so
substitutions of dried pasta are acceptable.
As with any Italian dish, quality
counts. You absolutely will not get the best results from the
cheapest ingredients you can find. This is especially true of the
pasta. Cheap store-brand or off-brand pastas are often made with
inferior grades of wheat or are adulterated with fillers that will
adversely affect the way they cook up. Mushy, overcooked spaghetti
will ruin any dish. I recommend De Cecco or Barilla, although other
quality Italian pastas can be found online or in specialty shops.
And also as with any Italian dish,
there are as many “authentic” ways to make it as there are cooks
preparing it. Here's the way I've made it for many years, and its
never done me wrong. In fact, I made some night before last.
For my version of “PASTA CACIO E
PEPE,” you'll need:
12 oz long pasta (spaghetti, linguine,
bucatini)
6 tbsp unsalted butter, cubed, divided
1 ½ cups grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or
Grana Padano
1/3 cup grated Pecorino Romano
1 ½ - 2 tsp freshly ground black
pepper
½ cup reserved pasta cooking water
salt
A lot of cooks just use Pecorino
Romano, and that's fine. I like the blend of Pecorino and either
Grana or Parmigiano. Each brings a nice flavor element to the table.
Real Pecorino Romano is a sheep's milk cheese, although what usually
lives on American supermarket shelves is made from cow's milk. Grana
Padano can be very difficult to find and Parmigiano-Reggiano is
expensive. I always use Parmigiano-Reggiano when I can't find the
less expensive Grana Padono, but if a domestic Parmesan cheese is all
you can get, go with it. Just make sure you never, ever, ever, ever
use the cheese-flavored sawdust that comes in a green plastic or
cardboard can under the “Parmesan” label. That, coupled with
cheap pasta, will produce an inedible dish.
For the butter in this dish, I prefer
European-style butter, which has a higher butterfat content and a
richer flavor. Kerrygold Irish Butter is good, as is Plugra and a new
entry into the market made by Land o' Lakes. Just make sure it's
unsalted, because you want to be able to balance the saltiness of the
dish yourself.
I'll mention here that some recipes
call for a mix of butter and extra-virgin olive oil. That's great. I
make it that way sometimes. This recipe is just a little simpler.
And do try to use freshly ground black
pepper. The pre-ground stuff just isn't as good. I know two teaspoons
sounds like a lot, but it really isn't for this dish. In fact, it's
probably a little light by some standards.
Finally, reserved pasta water is
essential to the success of this and many other Italian pasta dishes.
The starchy, salty water helps develop the “sauce” and the
finished product won't be the same without it.
Now, here's what you do:
Cook the pasta in plenty of boiling
salted water, according to package directions. And I do mean plenty –
four or five quarts – and salted – two or three tablespoons.
While the pasta cooks, melt half the
butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the pepper and cook,
swirling the pan, for about a minute. Add a little of the pasta water
and bring to a simmer.
Once the pasta is al dente, add it to
the pan along with the remaining butter. I use tongs or one of those
“spaghetti spoons” designed to lift and drain pasta. A little
extra water on the pasta won't hurt. Reduce the heat to low and add
the Parmesan or Grana Padano. Stir and toss, then remove from the
heat and add in the Pecorino. Stir and toss again until all the
cheeses melt. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve
immediately in warmed dishes.
Serves 4
Buon appetito!
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