One of Many Things the Italians
Taught the French
Béchamel
is one of the five “mother sauces” in classic French cuisine. It
is known as besciamella
or
occasionally balsamella
in
Italian and is simply called “white sauce” in English. It is
comprised of
three principal ingredients: fat (usually butter),
flour, and milk.
Like
so many other culinary elements, the French probably
stole......er......acquired
béchamel
from Italian chefs who accompanied Caterina de' Medici to France in
the 16th
century and then proclaimed it to be their own. Many French chefs
debate and deny this, but they would because they are French and
spend a lot of time in denial. Balsamella had been around in Tuscany
and Emilia for a long time before the French co-opted it and renamed
it in order to flatter a French marquis.
Politics
and origin aside, béchamel
is one of the simplest sauces to make – and one of the easiest to
screw up. French culinary authority Auguste Escoffier deemed it to be
a “mother” sauce because it is the basis of so many other
preparations. It is a key component in lasagna and other pasta dishes
and casseroles. It is essential to a good soufflé
and forms the base for most cream soups. I make killer creamed
potatoes with a béchamel
sauce and if you mix in some sausage and pour it over fresh, hot
biscuits, you'll be on the express train to Flavortown. (Gotta quit
watching Guy Fieri.) Add cheese to béchamel
for a Mornay sauce, without which decent macaroni and cheese would be
impossible. Besides imparting flavor, béchamel
does wonders for the texture of a dish, retaining moisture and adding
a richness not achievable by other means.
Here's
what you need for a basic béchamel:
1 tablespoon of butter
1 tablespoon of flour
1 cup of milk
salt, to taste
freshly ground nutmeg (optional)
Obviously, you can increase your yield based upon your needs. Just
keep your ratios in mind.
A
perfect béchamel
sauce begins with a roux. (That's pronounced “roo” for all you
non-Frenchy types.) A roux is what you get when you cook flour and
fat together. The result is the most efficient thickener there is for
sauces and gravies. You make a roux by melting butter and then adding
in an equal portion of flour. If you want to know why this works,
I'll can tell you in one word: gelatinization. When you heat flour in
fat, it causes the release of starches in the flour. These starches
swell and bond with surrounding liquids, creating a gel and causing
the desired thickening effect.
Some varieties of roux call for lard, vegetable oil, or other fats,
but butter is by far the most common ingredient. Some recipes specify
clarified butter, but regular butter works just as well for most
purposes. As with most cooking or baking preparations, using unsalted
butter allows more control over salt content in the finished dish,
but if salted butter is all you have available, it'll work. Just make
sure to taste for seasoning before adding more salt.
The
longer you cook a roux, the darker and more flavorful it gets. You
don't want an overpowering flavor in béchamel,
so you only cook your roux until it turns a very light brown, two or
three minutes. Long enough for the raw flour flavor to cook out. The
texture of your sauce will depend on the texture of your roux.
Generally speaking, you want to use equal portions of flour and
butter. But if you're looking for a thicker sauce, you can add a
little more flour.
Stir,
stir, stir! Keep it moving. Keep stirring or whisking that roux. If
you just throw the flour into the butter and walk away, you'll
have...........well, you won't
have
a roux. Constant stirring is essential. Once your roux has formed, it
should look like something between a thick slurry and a blob of
lightly colored paste, depending on how much flour you used and how
thick you want it to turn out. Now you're ready to add the milk and
get your sauce going.
The
best results come from using warm milk. The more anal among recipe
writers will instruct you to “scald” your milk. Scalding involves
heating the milk to around 180°.
This used to be necessary in order to kill bacteria and to destroy
enzymes that inhibited thickening. These days, unless you're getting
your milk direct from the cow instead of the refrigerator, it's
pasteurized and you don't need to do that anymore. Just stick it in
the microwave for about a minute. Or warm it in a pan on the stove.
Cold milk straight from the fridge might cause your sauce to “break.”
In non-kitchen terms, that means it'll separate. There are ways to
fix a broken sauce, but it's easier to do it right the first time.
Cold milk also tends to form lumps.
Add the warm milk a little at a time and whisk or stir until it
combines smoothly with the roux. If you dump it all in at once,
you'll get lumps. If you use too much milk, you'll get a runny sauce.
If you don't use enough, you'll get wallpaper paste. See why it's so
easy to screw this up? And keep stirring! At first, you're going to
look at the mess you're creating and say, “Oh my stars! (Or words
to that effect.) This looks terrible! I must be doing something
wrong.” Patience, grasshopper. Keep adding and stirring. It'll all
magically come together and you'll really impress yourself.
Once you get a smooth sauce of the desired consistency, keep stirring
and bring it to a boil. Don't let it bubble vigorously. Once you see
bubbles, drop the heat back and let the sauce simmer for another five
or six minutes. Did I mention to keep stirring?
Remove the pan from the heat and taste the sauce for seasoning. Add
salt as needed. Some folks like a little pepper in there. If you want
to be really fancy and esthetically pleasing, use white pepper
instead of black. Nutmeg, while not a necessity, does add a nice
depth of flavor to the sauce.
If
you're not going to use the sauce right away, that's okay. It'll hold
until everything's ready. But press a piece of plastic wrap down onto
the surface of the sauce to keep a skin from forming. I don't mean
cover the pan with plastic. I mean put the plastic right on the
sauce. Seriously. Don't hold it too long, though. If you keep the
sauce on the stove over really low heat, you'll be okay for maybe
thirty minutes. After that, the heat will start changing the flavor.
You can refrigerate béchamel
as long as you keep it well covered. When you're ready to use it,
warm it up slowly, stirring frequently. Béchamel
loves to
be stirred and the longer you stir it, the smoother it gets.
If
your sauce turns out too runny, don't try to reduce it. Reducing is a
fancy kitchen term for cooking a sauce over medium heat in order to
evaporate liquid and concentrate flavor. And it'll royally screw up a
béchamel.
Instead, employ another fancy French technique called a buerre
manie.
(It means “kneaded butter.”) Take equal amounts of cold butter
and flour and mush them together to form a ball. Drop the ball into
the warm sauce and eccolo!
The
butter melts, releasing the flour and its thickening starches without
making a lumpy sauce. (“Eccolo!”
is sort of the Italian equivalent of “voilà!”
I just figured I'd used more than enough French words today.)
Conversely, if your sauce seems too thick, add small amounts of milk
– remember to stir – until it thins out to where you want it.
Just don't go overboard with the milk or you'll wind up with a great
pan of warm milk for hot chocolate. You'll have to add more butter
and flour and pretty soon you'll have a big vat of sauce when you
only needed a cup. Or, of course, you can start all over.
It's
really not as hard as it sounds and the benefits of a well-made
béchamel
are more than worth the effort. Practice and consistency are the
keys. And did I mention stirring?
Buon appetito!
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