What's in a Name? That Which We Call Parmesan by Any Other Name
Would Taste as Salty. Or Would It?
After a recent round of trade talks, rumors are in the wind that
the European Union is seeking to ban the use of European names on
American-made cheeses. If the EU gets its way, cheeses like Parmesan,
Feta, Gorgonzola, and Muenster made in America would have to be
called something else.
This has a lot of American cheese producers and consumers up in arms. The consensus among manufacturers is
that such a change would be confusing to customers, while the general
populace tends to look upon it as an example of European elitism.
As I erect my flameproof shields, I come down firmly on the side
of the Europeans.
The only real “Parmesan” cheese is Parmigiano-Reggiano, a
cow's milk cheese produced in a particular geographic area in and
around Parma, Italy. And under European law, it can only be produced
in that area. Anything similar made elsewhere cannot, by law, be
called Parmigiano-Reggiano. However, there is this workaround, this
loophole of which manufacturers have taken advantage. “Parmigiano”
is the Italian word for something that comes from Parma. “Parmesan”
is the French term for the same thing. So people wishing to make a
knock-off of Parmigiano-Reggiano have only to call their product by
its French appellation to avoid the penalty of law. And the
uninformed consumer, wrongly thinking he has purchased an Italian
cheese product, buys the knock-off, thus leaving the Italian
manufacturer, who has spent generations developing his market and
producing his product, holding the dirty end of the stick. The same
principle applies to other cheeses associated with other areas.
Look at it like this: let's say the great entrepreneur Ron Popeil
made a widget. It was a good widget and he put a lot of time and
thought into developing and marketing it under his “Ronco” brand.
But I came up with a widget that looked and performed pretty much
like Ron Popeil's widget, so I decided to call mine the “Ronco
Widget” and sell it under that name. There would be cease and
desist orders and trademark infringement lawsuits flying like
confetti. Why? A lot of people think my widget is better. Doesn't
matter. The other guy named Ron has got the law protecting his brand
on his side.
It's not a matter of snobbery or elitism on the part of European
producers; it's just a matter of protecting their product by
enforcing already existing laws. Except European agricultural laws
don't apply to American food manufacturers. The proposed EU measures
would simply ensure that they do.
Laws governing protected geographic status of agricultural
products are common in Europe, but they are not unheard of in the
United States. For example, anybody in America can grow sweet onions
in their backyards. But their backyards had better be in or around
Vidalia, Georgia if they want to call their onions “Vidalias.”
And if you want to grow Russet potatoes in your garden, go for it.
Just don't tell people they're “Idaho Russets” if you live in,
say, Michigan.
“Well, we think onions grown in the Walla Walla Valley are every
bit as good as Vidalias. What makes the elitist snobs in Georgia
think their onions are better than ours?” Honestly, the average
consumer probably couldn't tell the difference in a blind taste test.
It's not that the Georgia-grown product is superior to the one grown
in Washington. It's just that Georgia growers protected their product
by getting the Georgia legislature to pass the “Vidalia Act of
1986,” limiting production of a particular strain of onion to
particular counties within the state. And then in 1989, they got the
USDA to issue a Federal Marketing Order defining that production
area. No different than what Italy has done with so-called Parmesan
cheese, except we in America don't recognize the authority of their
agricultural laws. And I would expect that if an Italian farmer
showed up at an Italian vegetable market with a truckload of
home-grown Vidalia onions, the USDA and the State of Georgia would
have a tough time shutting him down.
An Italian immigrant named Errico Auricchio heads up BelGioioso
Cheese in Green Bay, Wisconsin. I gotta tell you, they make some darn
fine cheeses there and I use them all the time. They are among the
best Italian-style cheeses made in the United States. But I know
they're not really Italian. Are they as good as the authentic
imported cheeses I buy at more upscale markets? Sometimes yes,
sometimes no. But that's not really the point.
In a statement to the Associated Press, Auricchio said, “We have
invested years and years making these cheeses. You cannot stop the
spreading of culture, especially in the global economy.” Who's
trying to stop the spread of culture? C'mon, Errico. You make great
cheese in the traditional Italian manner, but unless you buy all your
milk and rennet and such in Italy and have your cheese made there and
shipped to your factory in Green Bay, you're only making Italian
style cheese. Cheese made in
the same manner as it is made in Italy. It is not real Italian cheese
and should not be marketed as such. (We won't even discuss the issue
of the cheese-flavored sawdust Kraft sells in the green cans, but
that alone is good reason for the Italians to be upset.)
Protectionist American lawmakers
are screaming about the effects such an onerous regulation would have
on American small businesses. I don't see the problem. Canada and
other parts of the Americas have acquiesced to similar requests from
the EU and their markets don't seem to be collapsing because of it.
In Canada, they just add the word “style” to their packaging and
marketing. Problem solved by way of a concept that is foreign to
American marketers; truth in advertising. After all, that “Parmesan”
cheese they sell at Kroger under the “Organic Valley” name is not
an Italian cheese. It came from La Farge, Wisconsin, not Parma,
Italy. It may be Italian style, but
it's not Italian made. So what's so wrong with asking that the
labeling accurately reflect the product? It's Parmesan-style cheese.
Why would that affect American small businesses? Nobody is asking
them to stop making cheese; the EU is just asking for truth in
advertising and accuracy in labeling. And as far as being confusing
to consumers, what's so confusing about adding the word “style?”
That's what they do in Canada. Does that mean Canadian consumers are
smarter?
Give the EU a break, people. If
you don't want Italians selling Idaho potatoes in Emilia-Romagna,
then don't sell “Parmesan” cheese in Boise. Fair is fair.
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You can help by becoming a follower. I'd really like to know who you are and what your thoughts are on what I'm doing. Every great leader needs followers and if I am ever to achieve my goal of becoming the next great leader of the Italian culinary world :-) I need followers!
Grazie mille!
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