Meet Your New Meat
Like Will Rogers, I only know what I
read in the papers, and here's something I read recently: apparently
some people are confused by meat.
According to Progressive Grocer, the
National Pork Board and the Beef Checkoff Program have gotten
unanimous approval from the Industry-Wide Cooperative Meat
Identification Standards Committee – try saying that one three
times fast – to introduce updated terminology for Uniform Retail
Meat Identification Standards (URMIS) that retailers use on fresh
beef and pork package labels.
“Why?,”
you may ask. I certainly did. And it turns out that it's because some
people have problems figuring out that pork butt does not come
from.......where they apparently think it does. People in the know,
of course, know that it does not originate anywhere near the piggy's
tail. It is a shoulder cut. In some places it's actually called “pork
shoulder.” Unless you're in Boston, where it goes by the name
“Boston butt.” Or if you're driving through rural South Carolina,
you might see it advertised as “butt meat.” Yes. I'm serious.
“Butt meat.”
Some
sources trace the term to the wooden casks, or “butts,” in which
the relatively cheap cuts of pork used to be stored and shipped. Some
take an anatomical approach: a pig's foreleg has a “shank” end
where it attaches to the foot and a “butt” end where it joins the
shoulder. This meets the dictionary definition of “the larger or
thicker end of an object.”
However
it evolved, the term confuses the bejeebers out of some folks, so the
meat industry decided to change it. Henceforth and forever – or at
least until they change their minds again – the cut of meat
formerly referred to as “Boston butt,” that which comes from the
upper foreleg of a pig, shall now be called “Boston roast.” How
that's going to play in rural South Carolina remains to be seen.
“Roast meat?” Nahh.
And no
more “pork chops,” either. Nope. Now you'll have the infinitely
less confusing "porterhouse chops," "ribeye chops,"
and "New York chops" from which to choose. These cuts used
to be “loin chops,” “center rib chops,” and “top loin
chops,” respectively. And for you folks who enjoy a good rump
roast, look instead for “leg sirloin.” Don't you feel clearer
already?
Cows
also get their due. No more “boneless shoulder top blade steaks.”
They have become “flatiron steaks.” Gone, too, are “under blade
boneless steaks.” They are “Denver steaks” now. “boneless
beef loin top sirloin steak” now will simply be called a “sirloin
steak.”
In an
attempt to make things even more less confusing, the new changes will
cross species. A bone-in loin cut will be called a “T-bone”
whether it’s pork or beef.
All in
all, expect to see as many as 350 different names for different cuts
of beef and pork. And if that seems a little overwhelming, don't
worry; the “old” names will still be on the labels, too.
After
two years of research on the subject, marketing people became
convinced that consumers are stupid. Sales of beef and pork have
declined and it must be because people can't figure out what they're
buying, right? So let's come up with new marketing terms! That always
works! Think of what it did for prunes when we started calling them
“dried plums!”
According
to one industry PR flack, only butchers and meat cutters actually
care about the part of an animal from which a particular cut comes.
The rest of us average stupid consumers only want to know what it is
and what to do with it.
Frankly,
this stupid consumer actually knows what an “under blade boneless
steak” is. I've never heard of a “Denver steak.” And I
guarantee the people who wrote the hundred or so cookbooks in my
library didn't write recipes with “Boston roast” or “leg
sirloin” in mind. You wanna talk about confusing?
“If
it ain't broke, don't fix it” does not register with ad people
whose mantra, instead, is “if it ain't broke, break it and then
charge double to fix it.” If the problem truly is uneducated
consumers, how 'bout we educate them rather than making wholesale
changes to a well-established system? Hmmmm?
As
always, I am merely a voice crying in the wilderness. The meat
industry movers and shakers are already on board with this. At least
the beef and pork people are. The chicken people have declined to
participate. A National Chicken Council representative says, “a
chicken breast will remain a chicken breast.” Sorry if that
confuses you.
This
is a voluntary thing within the industry. Retailers don't have
to go along with the changes.
Feds at the USDA are just kind of shrugging and saying, “whatever.”
But even they admit that the whole thing could become a pain in the
Boston butt. Says one Bucky Gwartney, a federal agriculture marketing
specialist, “The intent certainly was not to confuse
consumers, but there are some situations where that certainly could
happen.”
Ya think?
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The View from My Kitchen
Benvenuti! I hope you enjoy il panorama dalla mia cucina Italiana -- "the view from my Italian kitchen,"-- where I indulge my passion for Italian food and cooking. From here, I share some thoughts and ideas on food, as well as recipes and restaurant reviews, notes on travel, a few garnishes from a lifetime in the entertainment industry, and an occasional rant on life in general..
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You can help by becoming a follower. I'd really like to know who you are and what your thoughts are on what I'm doing. Every great leader needs followers and if I am ever to achieve my goal of becoming the next great leader of the Italian culinary world :-) I need followers!
Grazie mille!
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