Everybody loves Italian food. It
remains at the top of the pyramid as the most popular “foreign”
cuisine in America. The biggest drawback most people have when
ordering Italian food is pronunciation.
Italian is one of the most lyrical,
romantic languages in the world. As written by the 13
th
century “Father of the Italian Language,” Dante Alighieri, it is
the language of art, music – and food. But English-speakers have
always had a hard time with Italian words. I don't know why. Italian
is just not that difficult. But as far back as the early twentieth
century, Italian chef Ettore Boiardi had to spell his name in
phonetic English – “boy-AR-dee” – in order to keep Americans
from mangling it.
Oddly enough, some of the worst
manglers are Italian-Americans. There are reasons for that. When
Italian immigrants arrived on American shores, many were desperate to
“fit in,” to “be American.” Many “Americanized” their
names and “Americanized” their language. This was especially true
during World War II, when Mussolini's alliance with Nazi Germany
caused anti-Italian sentiments to run high in the U.S. As a result, a
lot of Italian words were altered to sound more American. Regional
dialects also played a part. “Italian” is actually based on the
Tuscan dialect, but other regions often pronounce words differently.
And then there's just general linguistic laziness. People in the
Italian-American enclaves of New York, New Jersey, and South
Philadelphia are especially guilty of abbreviating and desecrating
pure Italian with words like “pro-SHOOT” in place of
prosciutto,
“mahtz-a-RELL” instead of
mozzarella and for
turning a masculine Italian name like Mario (MAH-ree-oh) into
something that sounds more like a female horse, “MARE-ee-oh.”
Some people might think you are being
pretentious when you try to “sound Italian” in an Italian
restaurant. I disagree. There is no pretension in being correct. In
my opinion – an opinion shared by most language experts – when a
“foreign” word is introduced into a language, the correct
pronunciation of that word is the pronunciation afforded it in its
original tongue. It's a matter of “when
you make up words,
you can say 'em
your way;
when I make up words,
you say 'em my way.”
The
French will slap you down for the slightest improper inflection of
their language. Italians? Not so much. Oh, they'll cringe, but they
won't complain. I, however, being a prig and a purist, will.
Therefore, permit me to offer a brief vocabulary lesson in the
proper pronunciation of Italian foodstuffs.
Unlike English, Italian is a phonetic
language. You say it like you see it. That makes it easy because
there are no crazy letter combinations. No “eight” that sounds
like “ate.” No “knights” and “nights.” No silent “e”s.
There are five vowels. Each has one or two simple sounds: “A”
sounds like the “a” in “car” – it's an “ah” sound; “E”
has two sounds, one like the “e” in “men” and the other like
the “ay” in “hay”; “I” is always sounded like “ee”;
“O” also has two sounds, “oh” as in “coat” and “aw”
as in “frost”; and “U” is always sounded as “oo.” That's
it.
There are a few rules regarding
consonants. For instance, the “r” is always rolled. The “ch”
combination is a hard “k” sound, as in “chianti.” The same
sound is produced when “c” precedes “a”, “o”, or “u”.
The letter “c” followed by an “e” or an “i” produces a
“ch” sound, as in “church.” A “g” followed by “a”,
“o,” or “u” has a hard sound, as in “good.” When followed
by an “e” or and “i,” it produces a soft sound, like the “j”
in “job.” The “gn” combination is sounded like the “ny”
in “canyon.” The “gia” combination is tricky; Italians
pronounce each letter, but they do so very quickly. It comes out
sounding like “jyah.” It's never “JEE-ah.” Giada De
Laurentiis is “JYAH-dah” not “jee-AH-dah” and Gianni Versace
is “JYAH-nee” rather than “jee-AH-nee.” It's harder to write
it than it is to say it.
“H” is the only silent letter in
the Italian language.
One more consonant
rule: In English, double consonants are lumped together and sounded
as one. In Italian, you separate them. One consonant ends a syllable
and the other begins the next. Not in an exaggerated way, but still
very distinctly. You'll see the importance of this later.
English-speakers pluralize words by
tacking an “s” onto the end. And since that's the way it's done
in English, that must be the way everybody does it, right? Not
really. When you see the word “paninis” on a sign or menu, you're
looking at a made up word. You can have a
panino if
you would like just one sandwich or if you want more than one you can
have panini. No “s”.
Same thing applies to any word
that ends in “i.” It's already plural. Cannelloni,
ravioli, tortellini, cannoli,
etc. Adding an “s” to such words does not make them plural, it
just makes them wrong. In America, such errors have become accepted
through common usage, but “I'll have a panini” or
“I'd like two paninis” is
still bad Italian.
Another peculiar peccadillo involves
any word that ends in “e.” Perhaps because there are so many
“silent e” word endings in English, English-speakers seem to have
an aversion to pronouncing the “e” at the end of any word. But
remember, Italian is phonetic. The “e” is meant to be sounded. A
calzone, for example, is
correctly pronounced “kahl-ZAW-nay.” “KAL-zone” or “kal-ZONE”
is incorrect.
One
big minefield for mispronunciation is Italian cheeses. I once asked
the “sandwich artist” at a national chain place for a slice of
provolone on my
sandwich. Of course, I said, “proh-voh-LOH-nay.” She said, “Oh,
you mean “PRO-vuh-lone?” No, dear, I meant exactly what I said,
thank you.
Mascarpone drives
me wild. It's not “MASS-kar-pohn.” It's “Mahs-kar-POH-nay.”
And despite what some TV chefs constantly say, it's most definitely
not “MARS-kuh-pone.” Look at the word. “Mascarpone.”
There's no “r” before the
“s.”
Mozzarella and
ricotta are delicious
cheeses. And they sound delicious when correctly pronounced.
“Mohts-sah-RAYL-lah” and “ree-KAWT-tah” sound yummy.
“Mahtz-uh-RELLA” and “ruh-KOTTA” just sound unappetizing.
Parmigiano-Reggiano is
pronounced “par-mee-JYAH-noh rej-JYAH-noh” not “par-ma-gee-AH-no
reg-ee-AH-no” as Americans say it. And if you just say “parmesan,”
that's okay, but it's “PAR-mee-zahn,” not “parma-john” or
“parma-zhan,” or “par-mee-zee-an” or any of a dozen other
variations.
Other commonly
mutilated Italian food words include:
Biscotti:
Americans tend to flatten this word out – “bis-KOT-ee.”
“Bee-SKAWT-tee” is correct. “Bee-SKOHT-tee,” is pretty close.
“Bis-KOT-ee” is not even in the ballpark.
Bolognese: Regarding
that wonderful meat sauce from Bologna, remember the “gn” and the
final “e”. “Bolognese”
does not rhyme with “mayonnaise.” It's “boh-loh-NYAY-seh,”
not “BO-luh-naze” or “bo-luh-NAZE.”
Braciole; This
is one of those dialect things. In Sicily – and, by extension,
Sicilian neighborhoods in the US – this beef dish is pronounced
“brah-ZHOOL.” Sort of. Anywhere else in Italy, it's
“brah-chee-OH-leh.”
Bruschetta: It gets way under my
skin when I hear someone ask for “broo-SHET-uh.” It gets even
further under my skin when a server offers “broo-SHET-uh.” I have
crawled many a waiter or waitress for that transgression. The word
comes from “bruscare” and
is pronounced “broo-SKAYT-tah.” Even “broo-SKET-tah,” would
be okay. But “broo-SHET-uh” is just annoyingly wrong. Think of it
this way; do you send your kids to SHOOL?
Caprese:
Capri is an island off the coast of Italy. It is properly pronounced
“KAH-pree” rather than “kuh-PREE.” “Kuh-PREE” has
something to do with women's pants. Anyway, cuisine from the island
is correctly pronounced as “kah-PRAY-say” rather than
“kuh-PREES.”
Espresso: I
don't know where anybody sees an “x” in that word. “Es-PREHS-soh
is correct. “Expresso” must
be the instant or “express” version of Italian coffee.
Gnocchi:
One of those tricky words. It's got the “gn”, the “o”, a
double consonant, and a “ch” to deal with. The proper
pronunciation is “NYAWK-kee.” As long as you use the “ny”
sound at the beginning, you can probably get by with cheating a long
vowel sound – “NYOAK-kee.” However, any variation of “NOH-kee”
is badly incorrect.
Marinara: This one has the old
“fingernails on a blackboard” effect on me. Even more so than
“broo-SHET-uh.” Scads of Americans order “mare-uh-NARE-uh”
all the time. Aaarrrggg! What they should be ordering is
“mah-ree-NAH-rah.” That other ugly abomination is just a
butchery of the language.
Pancetta: I
actually heard an Italian-American restaurateur talking about
“pan-SET-uh” on national TV. Buddy, either learn to say
“pahn-CHEHT-tah” or go open a hot dog stand.
Pasta: If you hear someone say
“PASS-tuh,” he probably orders “TACK-ohs” in Mexican
restaurants. He could be British. The Brits make worse Italians than
Americans do. Which is just weird because they also say
“toh-MAH-toh.” Anyway, even in London, “PAHS-tah” is correct.
“PASS-tuh” is not.
And then there are the various kinds of
pasta. Americans hopelessly twist pasta names like
spaghetti,
tagliatelle, fettuccine and others. Instead of “spah-GEHT-tee,”
“tah-glee-ah-TAYL-lay,” and “feht-too-CHEEN-nay,” you get
“spuh-GET-ee,” “tag-lee-uh-TELL-ee,” and “fet-uh-CHEE-nee”
every time. Even my food hero Alton Brown is guilty of
“tag-lee-uh-TELL-ee.” E tu, Alton? And have you ever ordered a
male body part for dinner? You have if you've ordered “PEN-eh”
pasta. This is one of those words where the separation of the double
consonant is
really important.
“Penne” is
pronounced “PAYN-nay.” or even “PEHN-neh.” Hit that
brief separation or you come away sounding like you're asking for
pene, the aforementioned body
part. Also,
“penne” is not a homophone for a copper
coin. “Penny pasta” might be a good price for the dish, but it's
lousy pronunciation.
Pasta fagioli: If
the stars make-a you drool like-a “pasta fazool,” that's
a-wrong-o. It's pasta fah-JYOH-lee. If
you order “pasta fazool” in New York, they'll give you a bean
dish. If you order it in Italy, they'll give you a funny look.
Risotto: When
it comes to pronunciation fits, this creamy, delicious rice dish
falls into the same category as biscotti and
gnocchi. It's “ree-SAWT-toh,” or even
“ree-SOHT-toh.” But there is definitely no “z” sound. It's
not “rizz-OH-toh.” And while some English-speakers can get the
hang of rolling their “r”s – Scots do it quite well – most
Americans just can't manage it. So as long as you're not putting some
weird buzzing sound in the middle of the word, you can get a break on
the “r.”
Americans have gotten a bad rep all
over the world because we always expect people in other countries to
do things our way. The “right” way. The American way. Which
means, of course, everybody should speak our language. But people in
other cultures really do appreciate it when you respect them enough
to at least attempt their way of speaking.
Not
long ago, I was being assisted by a Japanese clerk in a big chain
department store. She spoke English well enough, but with a very
heavy accent. When I thanked her by saying “domo
arigato,” she positively
beamed with happiness. I had made her day with one appropriate phrase
in her language.
So how about it? Are you ready to be a
“goodwill ambassador” to your favorite Italian restaurant? With a
little practice, it's easy to pick up a few food words. And it's a
great way to impress your friends without having to lay out a week's
pay for a copy of
Rosetta Stone.
Buon appetito e buon pronuncia!