The Big “Secret” Is Revealed
The Internet exploded the other day
when a now former Panera Bread employee apparently “revealed” the
anything-but-secret secret about how the fast casual chain prepares
and serves its signature macaroni and cheese.
In a brief clip filmed behind the
counter and later uploaded to Tik Tok, the employee is seen dipping a
plastic bag full of frozen macaroni and cheese into a pot of hot
water and then pulling it out and emptying the steaming contents into
a bowl for service.
I don't know, but I'm guessing the
reason behind this attempted “outing” was to cause some kind of
embarrassment to Panera, an outfit that prides itself on its fresh,
all-natural fare. It's like “lookee-lookee! Their fresh macaroni
and cheese is frozen!!”
Excuse me while I stifle a yawn.
If this myth-busting Snopes wannabe is
expecting me to pick up my picket sign and go protest in front of my
local store, she's going to be sadly disappointed. See, with four
generations of family and numerous friends in the food service
business, I know a little something about how it works and this is
far from a secret or a surprise.
What? Did you really think there was a
Michelin-starred chef in a white jacket and a toque just standing
back in the local Panera kitchen waiting to make a single serving of
your favorite side dish fresh to order? That he was cooking each
individual portion of pasta one at a time and making the creamy
cheese sauce from scratch so he or she could pour it over your dish
when it was ready to hit the window? Reality check time. That ain't
the way it works at Panera, Olive Garden, Red Lobster or just about
any other high-volume chain restaurant you can think of.
And it ain't the way it works in my
kitchen either. I've got freezers jam packed with goodies that I did,
indeed, craft from high-quality, super-fresh ingredients that I then
portioned out, vacuum-sealed, and stuck in the freezer for later use.
There's absolutely nothing wrong
with that. It's common industry practice. A chef, Michelin-starred or
not, working in a corporate kitchen somewhere, developed the recipe.
The high-quality, super-fresh ingredients were assembled and
prepared according to the chef's standards and under his or her
supervision. Then the results were portioned and quickly frozen in
order to maintain that fresh quality without having to add a ton of
preservatives. I do it commercially for my clients, I do it at home
for my family; it's no big deal. C'mon! Have you never made too much
of something and wound up freezing part of it and eating it later?
Was there anything wrong with it when you did? Of course not.
Trust
me, I've had cooks in my restaurants who just loved to “play”
with my recipes. Add a little of this, leave out a little of that.
You know, “personalize” it. Can you imagine what would happen if
every barely above minimum wage cook in every Panera Bread restaurant
across the country were allowed to make the macaroni and cheese
“their way” from scratch? Even if they “followed the recipe,”
it wouldn't taste the same from one location to the next and you
wouldn't be happy, now would you?
I
remember eating at a chain place years ago where the cooks apparently
had a little leeway in the preparation of certain things. As a
result, I got a Fettuccine Alfredo that had enough nutmeg in the
sauce as to render it not only unrecognizable but also inedible. And
you know what? I've never been back to any location of that chain
from that day to this.
Creativity
is fine for fine dining, but when it comes to chain places,
consistency is key. Customers expect the macaroni and cheese at the
Panera in Kookamunga to taste the same as the stuff they had in the
store down the street. If the cook in Kookamunga likes, let's say
nutmeg, and is given free rein to prepare the dish “his way,”
they're going to have a very dissatisfied customer. So yeah, they
make the stuff in big batches and freeze it. So what?
As a Panera spokesperson told CNN, “Mac
and cheese is made off-site with our proprietary recipe developed by
our chefs and using our sourced ingredients that meet our standards
for our clean menu offerings,” adding that the meals are shipped
frozen so the company can leave out certain preservatives that don’t
meet the chain’s clean standards.
Technically,
what they're doing at Panera is a form of the very trendy and popular
“sous vide” method of cooking. It's actually the best way for a
restaurant – or anybody, for that matter – to reheat macaroni and
cheese from a frozen or refrigerated state. Tossing it in a pan on
the stove or letting “Chef Mic” (industry speak for a microwave)
do it usually turns out badly. Heating the product in a gentle,
temperature-controlled water bath brings it up to serving temperature
gradually while ensuring that the sauce stays emulsified with no
breaking or scorching. Again, consistent quality counts.
By the
way, have you ever wondered how some high-end steak places can
produce such consistently killer steaks in such short periods of
time? Pssst.......sous vide. Everybody does it.
I
guess somewhere just south of a hundred-thousand people – probably
more by now – thought the little clip was newsworthy. And
apparently Panera thought that the budding videographer's talents
were best applied elsewhere. Seems the pasta wasn't the only thing in
hot water around there. So now she's on Tik Tok crying salty tears
about having been canned, essentially for trying to make her employer
look bad. Boo-hoo! Sorry, you're lucky they didn't sue you.
You
know, I'm a sucker for good macaroni and cheese and I've never tried
Panera's. I can vouch for their soups and sandwiches but maybe it's
time I branch out a bit. Hmmmm.....it is lunchtime and there is a
Panera Bread store not far from here. Yeah, I think I'll do that.
After all, I ain't afraid of no hot water. Care to join me?
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