Chill, Baby – Or Not
Standing tall in the average American
kitchen is the appliance that changed the world about a hundred years
ago. I'm talking about the refrigerator, of course. Or as my
grandmother called it to her dying day, the “icebox.” Or, as
Alton Brown says, the “chill chest.” Whatever you call it, the
technology has certainly changed the way we preserve food.
Used to be, drying or salting or maybe
pickling were the only ways to make food last more than a few days.
People who lived in icy places recognized another way, but that
method was difficult to replicate indoors. That is until somebody
came up with the idea of building a wooden box and lining it with tin
or zinc and stuffing that lining with cork, sawdust, straw or some
other form of insulation. Then they stuck another box or a tray on
top and put a big block of ice in that box or tray. The cold produced
by the melting ice would sink – because cold air sinks and hot air
rises – cooling the interior of the insulated box. And the ice box
was born.
That worked well until the early1900s
when somebody else thought, “there must be a better way” and came
up with one. And the development of the modern refrigerator was
underway. By the 1930's, home refrigerators had become ubiquitous,
putting people like my dad, who worked in an icehouse, out of work,
but vastly improving the quality of life – and of food – for most
people.
Some folks began throwing everything
in the ol' icebox/refrigerator
on the theory that if it's good for some things, it must be good for
everything. Not so much. To refrigerate or to not refrigerate; that
is the question. And here are some answers.
Obviously, anything
that's going to spoil or “go bad” needs to be refrigerated. Meat,
for example. Or leftovers. Those are kind of no brainers. But it's
not always a matter of maintaining food safety; sometimes it's a case
of preserving food quality. And that's where a lot of people go off
the track. Especially when it comes to produce. Carrots, celery,
lettuce – pretty much anything you find chilled in the produce
section of the grocery store should remain chilled once it gets home. But
there are some items that fall into gray areas as well as some that
should absolutely not be refrigerated.
Apples fall into
the gray area. Some people like 'em cold and some prefer them at room
temperature. And that's fine if you're dealing with
fresh-off-the-tree fruit. Pick some apples and stick them in a nice
basket on your table and you have both a quick source of snack food
and a nice centerpiece. But if you do your apple picking at the
supermarket, chances are those apples were in long-term cold storage
before they hit the market. According to Purdue University, “apples
are best stored at 30°- 32°F, with a relative humidity of 90
percent and some air circulation. These conditions provide the
greatest delay in the normal ripening and aging process of the fruit.
Such conditions are necessary because an apple is not dead at the
time of harvest. It remains a living, respiring organism and
continues to take in oxygen and give off carbon dioxide and another
gas, ethylene. Since the apple is no longer receiving nutrients from
the tree but is still respiring, it must use up the food it has
stored over the growing season. As this food is gradually used up
during storage, the sugar, starch, and acid content of the apple
changes. Eventually the tissues break down (a process enhanced by
ethylene gas), water is lost, and the apple withers and decays. The
low temperature, high humidity, and exchange of gases through air
circulation serve to slow those natural events as much as possible.”
The nice, bright,
“fresh” apples you just bought at the store may have been living
in cold storage for the last year or so. And when you bring them home
and put them in that pretty basket on the table.....well, they begin
to show their age pretty rapidly. Oh, they're still “good” in
that they're not overtly rotten, but they'll get old and mealy a lot
quicker than if you keep them stored under the conditions to which
they've become accustomed – i. e. refrigerated.
Some folks
refrigerate bread thinking it will preserve the quality by retarding
mold growth. And that's true. But it's also true that refrigerating
bread will hasten the staling process. Bread goes stale for two
reasons; loss of moisture and the retrogradation and
recrystallization of starch. There's a pages-long scientific
explanation of the process, but it boils down to this: cold reforms
the starches in the bread and makes them harden. Even sealed loaves
of bread will stale in the cold. Freezing is another matter. Freezing
actually retards the process. So here's the takeaway: if you're
afraid of your bread going stale, leave out just enough to use for a
couple of days and stow the rest in the freezer.
Eggs are another good example of a gray area. In Europe, eggs are left out in baskets on tables and counters. In America, they have to be refrigerated. Why? Because European egg producers don't wash their eggs the way American suppliers do. American eggs are so thoroughly cleaned with hot water and a chlorine spray before they are packaged that the egg's natural outer protective coating – the cuticle – is washed away. Since eggshells are extremely porous, this means any stray microscopic bugs lurking about – particularly salmonella – can get an easy ride into the egg's interior. Hence the need for refrigeration. Farm-fresh eggs that don't undergo such rigorous cleansing can safely be left out, but bear in mind that an egg's freshness is also preserved by refrigeration. Experts say an egg will age more in one day at room temperature than it will in a week in the refrigerator. And in spite of the dimpled little trays in the door, eggs should be refrigerated in their cartons in the coldest part of the fridge. Door storage exposes them to too many changes in temperature and too much jostling as the door is constantly being opened and closed.
One thing that most people don't think to refrigerate but probably should is nuts. There's nothing wrong with keeping them in the pantry, but because nuts contain oils that can go rancid, refrigerating them will preserve flavor and quality for a good bit longer.
I've opened refrigerator doors and have been astonished at what I've seen stowed away in there. Coffee, sugar, flour, potato chips, even breakfast cereal. There's one word for that practice: STOP! And another word to explain why: moisture. There's no place like the refrigerator to create moisture through condensation. In an ideal world, the inside of a refrigerator would be perfectly cold and dry. But this is the real world. Every time you open the door, moisture gets in. If your door seal is not perfect, moisture gets in. If you have open containers of food or beverages in the refrigerator, or moisture-laden foods like celery and lettuce and such, they are all releasing natural moisture into the interior of the fridge. And what makes dried foods like crackers and cookies and potato chips get stale the quickest? Yep. Moisture.
Eggs are another good example of a gray area. In Europe, eggs are left out in baskets on tables and counters. In America, they have to be refrigerated. Why? Because European egg producers don't wash their eggs the way American suppliers do. American eggs are so thoroughly cleaned with hot water and a chlorine spray before they are packaged that the egg's natural outer protective coating – the cuticle – is washed away. Since eggshells are extremely porous, this means any stray microscopic bugs lurking about – particularly salmonella – can get an easy ride into the egg's interior. Hence the need for refrigeration. Farm-fresh eggs that don't undergo such rigorous cleansing can safely be left out, but bear in mind that an egg's freshness is also preserved by refrigeration. Experts say an egg will age more in one day at room temperature than it will in a week in the refrigerator. And in spite of the dimpled little trays in the door, eggs should be refrigerated in their cartons in the coldest part of the fridge. Door storage exposes them to too many changes in temperature and too much jostling as the door is constantly being opened and closed.
One thing that most people don't think to refrigerate but probably should is nuts. There's nothing wrong with keeping them in the pantry, but because nuts contain oils that can go rancid, refrigerating them will preserve flavor and quality for a good bit longer.
I've opened refrigerator doors and have been astonished at what I've seen stowed away in there. Coffee, sugar, flour, potato chips, even breakfast cereal. There's one word for that practice: STOP! And another word to explain why: moisture. There's no place like the refrigerator to create moisture through condensation. In an ideal world, the inside of a refrigerator would be perfectly cold and dry. But this is the real world. Every time you open the door, moisture gets in. If your door seal is not perfect, moisture gets in. If you have open containers of food or beverages in the refrigerator, or moisture-laden foods like celery and lettuce and such, they are all releasing natural moisture into the interior of the fridge. And what makes dried foods like crackers and cookies and potato chips get stale the quickest? Yep. Moisture.
The
National Coffee Association will be the first among many to tell
you “it is important not to refrigerate or freeze your daily
supply of coffee because contact with moisture will cause it to
deteriorate. Instead, store coffee in air-tight glass or ceramic
containers and keep it in a convenient, but dark and cool, location.”
They say freezing bulk quantities of coffee in small batches is okay
as long as you don't return them to the freezer or fridge after
you've taken them out.
Sugar will harden up when exposed to
the tiniest bit of moisture. All you need is an airtight container
in a cool, dry spot. No refrigeration required.
In spite of what Aunt Sally might say,
white flour does not need to be refrigerated. Processed all-purpose
flour will last a long, long time sealed up in the pantry. You'll
probably use it up way before any spoilage can occur. Not so with
whole wheat flour, however, which still contains the bran and germ.
Oils in those elements can go rancid within a fairly short time, so
if you're not blazing through your supply of whole wheat flour,
refrigerating it is a good idea.
Potato chips? Really? Unless you just
like cold chips there's no reason whatsoever for refrigerating them.
You might think you're keeping them nice and fresh, but the opposite
is true. Remember moisture? You might as well leave the bag open and
store it in the bathroom next to the shower. And besides, an open bag
of potato chips in my house is lucky to survive more than forty-eight
hours. They wouldn't get stale in that time frame unless I really did
store them in the bathroom next
to the shower. Just close the bag, pressing out as much air as
possible as you do so, and seal it up in – you guessed it – a
cool, dry place.
And as far as refrigerating cereal, the
same principle applies to Cheerios as to potato chips.
Tomatoes are big refrigerator no-nos.
It's a topic for much debate, but science is on the side of keeping
them out of the chiller. Chemically, the flavor in a tomato comes
from a combination of sugars, acids and aroma-producing compounds
called volatiles. These volatiles are most active at “room
temperature” – sixty-eight to seventy-two degrees. My
refrigerator stays at around thirty-seven degrees, as should yours.
At that temperature volatiles start breaking down quickly. And it's
not just the flavor that gets compromised. At temps below fifty, the
actual structure of the fruit begins to soften and pit. If you like
your tomatoes mushy and flavorless, the refrigerator is the perfect
place to achieve that end.
Melons, like honeydews, watermelons,
and cantaloupes, don't do well in the refrigerator. At least not
whole ones. Different story once they're cut. Cut melons can be
refrigerated for three or four days. I know, I know......you saw a
website that said it was okay to refrigerate melons. But recent
findings by the USDA show that the antioxidants in them hold up
better at room temperature. Can you
refrigerate them? Yes. Should you
refrigerate them? No.
Potatoes aren't happy in the
refrigerator either. Cold breaks down starches, affecting both the
flavor and the texture of the potato. The starches turn to sugars and
impart a weirdly sweet taste when the potato is cooked. These sugars
also make the potato develop dark spots in the flesh. So if you want
baked potatoes that are yuckily sweet and dark, go for it. Store your
spuds in the fridge. Otherwise, a cool, dark place is where they'll
be happiest longest.
Onions should stay out of the fridge,
again unless they're cut. Whole onions get soft in the refrigerator
and can turn moldy. Condensation, you know. And besides, they're
smelly and love to share their smelliness with your butter, your
eggs, and pretty much everything else in the box. If you cut an onion
and don't use it all, you can stick the unused portion in a covered
container and refrigerate it for a few days. Otherwise, onions like
warm, dry places.
By the way, keep your onions and your
potatoes far away from one another. They are great cooked up together
in a hash brown casserole, but they don't play well together in their
raw state. Onions are high ethylene gas producers and if you want to
watch your spuds sprout practically overnight, store 'em near the
onions.
Garlic, avocados, citrus fruits, and
bananas should all avoid the inside of a refrigerator, too. Unless
you really like the jet black banana look. Oh, they'll be okay to
eat, but one look and you won't want to. And you can refrigerate
berries, but they'll actually spoil more quickly than if you leave
them out and just eat them real fast. As I said earlier,
pretty much anything your grocer sells unrefrigerated should stay
that way once you get it home.
Here are a final few yays and nays.
Once opened, ketchup will keep either
way in the short run, but it's better refrigerated if you're not
using it regularly. Same goes for mustard. Ketchup and mustard will
last a month or two unrefrigerated. Refrigerated ketchup is good for
six months or so and refrigerated mustard keeps for about a year.
Mayonnaise and dairy-based condiments
should be refrigerated after opening. Relishes and other things made
from fresh vegetables likewise.
Most oils are fine in cool, dark
places. It won't hurt to
refrigerate them, but they don't need it.
I remember one winter when the power went out and the temperature in
my kitchen dropped into the low fifties. The olive oil in my pantry
got cloudy and a little sludgy. But when the room warmed back up, the
oil cleared up and was fine.
Acidic, salty, or extremely sweet
products are okay stored outside the fridge. Soy sauce,
Worcestershire, vinegar, etc. need no refrigeration. Same goes for
honey, molasses, and corn syrup. Some jams and jellies go either way.
Most, especially those with two-thirds or more sugar, are okay in the
pantry. However, some require refrigeration. Check the label.
Maple syrup is a touchy issue. I just
checked the labels on the bottles in my refrigerator and both say “no
refrigeration required.” BUT......both are “pancake syrup” not
real maple syrup. Aunt Jemima and Log Cabin. One has HFCS (high
fructose corn syrup) in it, a fact I did not notice when I bought it
or I wouldn't have. But even the non-HFCS syrup contains corn syrup,
sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium benzoate, sorbic acid and phosphoric
acid, so nope, there's definitely no need to refrigerate those. Pure
maple syrup, like honey, will crystallize in the refrigerator. On the
other hand, it'll get moldy if you don't refrigerate it. Some people
say you can just boil it lightly and skim off the mold, but.......no
thanks. Producers associations in Vermont and Massachusetts say
unopened maple syrup is relatively shelf stable but recommend
refrigeration after opening.
Okay, this isn't a comprehensive list
by any means, but it'll have to do for now. I have to go sort my
produce. The onions are gassing the potatoes and making them cry
their eyes out. So chill baby – or not.
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