Not
All Pastas Are Created Equal
Anybody
who has ever wandered down the pasta aisle at the grocery store has
probably come away bewildered by the variety of shapes on display. And what you'll find in the average supermarket is but a tiny fraction of all the wonderful examples of the pasta makers art. A conservative estimate finds between 350 and 400 different pasta shapes on the market, the majority of which, of course, can be found in Italy. So, why are there so many shapes? Did somebody get bored in the kitchen or what? While imagination does play a role in the creation of pasta shapes – tortellini
are said to resemble the navel of Venus and orecchiette
are supposed to look like little ears – there is actually a real
reason behind the various configurations. It has to do with the one
of the primary purposes of pasta: serving as a vehicle for sauce.
Don't
get me wrong. As any good Italian will tell you, pasta is meant to be
the star of the dish and the sauce is merely a condiment. That said,
some pastas work better with some condiments than others. The way the
sauce clings or adheres to the pasta can make or break a dish. That's
one reason you NEVER (was
I emphatic enough there?) put oil on your drained pasta or in the
cooking water. Unless, of course, you really want
your
sauce to slide right off the noodle. The way a pasta is shaped
contributes to its surface area, which, in turn, determines how it
will interact with the sauce. Some pastas are smooth and some have
texture or ridges (called rigati).
Some are long thin strands, some are long flat ribbons, some are
short hollow tubes, while others have fanciful configurations like
shells, bow ties, corkscrews and, yes, even little ears.
There
are nearly as many sauces and preparations as there are pastas. The
hands down winner of the pasta sauce popularity contest is the
traditional southern Italian tomato-based sauce. The essential salsa
di pomodoro
is the basic platform from which many other sauces are made. Although
delicious when served “plain,” adding spices, herbs, vegetables
or meats like ground beef, pork sausage, pancetta,
or guanciale
creates a range of possibilities from marinara,
arribiatta, amatriciana, puttanesca
and many more. A hearty, meaty bolognese
begins with tomato sauce. Often, tomato sauce is combined with
meatballs for what Americans believe to be a quintessentially Italian
dish, except that it only exists on Italian-American tables.
Then
there are the oil-based sauces. Usually consisting of nothing more
than olive oil or butter and a variety of herbs and spices, these
light sauces are as simple as they are delicious. Pasta
aglio e olio,
or pasta with garlic and oil, comes to mind.
While
tomatoes and olive oil reign in the southern parts of Italy, creamy
and/or cheesy sauces are more representative of northern regions.
Although rice, gnocchi,
and polenta
are common in the north, there are still plenty of rich, creamy pasta
dishes to be found.
Whether
prepared with tomato-based sauces or rich creamy sauces, baked pasta,
or pasta al forno,
is
the ultimate comfort food. Macaroni and cheese and baked ziti
are just two of dozens of examples.
Finally, pasta is used to bulk up soups and it is a staple in many
salads, as well.
The
general rules of thumb for pairing pasta with sauce advise that
thinner, lighter sauces are best paired with long pastas like
spaghetti,
linguine, bucatini, fettuccine, tagliatelle, pappardelle,
and capellini.
Capellini,
or “angel hair,” is very delicate and works best with the
lightest sauces, while thicker pasta shapes, like
bucatini and fettuccine, work well with heavier sauces.
Chunky, meaty sauces and
thick, creamy or cheesy sauces pair best with short, tubular pasta
shapes. Penne, ziti, cavatelli, conchiglie, gemelli, fusilli,
radiatore, farfalle, rigatoni, and, of course, chifferi
are but a few of dozens of choices. You'll recognize chifferi
by its common name, “elbow” macaroni.
Pastas that are ideal for
soups include ditalini, orzo, pastina, stelline, anelli, and
acini di pepe. These are all tiny pasta shapes, but larger
shapes, like farfalle, can also work well in soups.
People throw almost anything
into pasta salads, but the shapes that work best include rotini,
fusilli, farfalle, oricchiette, rotelle, penne, and good old
“elbows.”
There
are no hard and fast rules here. The pasta police will not batter
down your kitchen door if you are caught using shells instead of
elbows in your macaroni and cheese. With four hundred varieties from
which to choose, there's a lot of room for experimentation. These are
merely guidelines based on generations of experience. Your mileage
may vary. So, impazzire!
(Go crazy!)
And
buon appetito!
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