The French Would Still Be Eating With
Their Fingers
Over the years, Italians have been
responsible for a lot of societal upgrades. Scads of inventions and innovations have their
origins in Italy. But who needs radio? What's so great about a
battery? And the telephone? (Yes, an Italian developed a working
telephone five years before the Scottish guy patented his.) Italians
were also behind everything from the architectural arch to the
Zamboni. However, there is one Italian innovation that stands above
all others in terms of its impact on society and civilization: I'm
talking about the fork.
Okay. Italians didn't actually invent
the fork. It had been around in
some form or another in other parts of the world for centuries. But
Italians are credited for its spread throughout Europe during the
Middle Ages and the Renaissance. The French would still be eating
with their fingers if the Italians hadn't shown them how to use
forks.
The
word “fork” itself comes from the Latin “furca,”
meaning “pitchfork.” In modern Italian, it's forchetta.
In order to qualify as a fork,
an implement must have two or more prongs. Otherwise it's just a
stick.
Bronze
Age civilizations used forks as cooking tools. So did ancient
Egyptians. Somebody probably found a forked stick laying around and
figured out that it would hold a hunk of meat over a fire better than
a straight stick would. The Greeks adapted the fork for use as a
serving utensil. But nobody commonly ate with forks until the
Byzantines came up with the idea in the 3rd
or 4th
century. The Byzantine Empire, aka the Eastern Roman Empire, was the
most powerful economic, military, and cultural force in Europe during
its heyday from about the middle of the 4th
century until late in the 13th.
Philosophy, astronomy, mathematics, law, art, and literature all
thrived under the Empire's influence during this period. Cuisine also
advanced in Byzantine circles. A lot of modern Greek food –
baklava, for example – can follow its roots back to Byzantine
times. So can the tools used for eating said food; tools such as
forks.
By the
10th
century, a variation of the modern table fork was in use in Persia
and throughout the Middle East. It is thought that Western Europeans
were introduced to the utensil by the Byzantine wife of Emperor Otto
II when she used one at an Imperial banquet in 972. Some sources
credit the Byzantine spouse of a Venetian Doge a little bit later.
Regardless, within a hundred or so years, the fork had taken over the
Italian peninsula.
See, Marco Polo
myth notwithstanding, pasta was already a staple of the Italian diet
in those days. So it's no wonder the fork was an instant sensation.
Try eating spaghetti by wrapping it around one chopstick. That's
pretty much what the Italians were doing. Once they got hold of
forks, all bets were off. They even improved on the design by adding
a third appendage to the existing two, possibly taking a cue from the
ancient trident.
That's
not to say that everybody in Italy all of a sudden started eating
with forks. The spoon had been around since folks figured out how to
scoop food with a curved shell. But the knife was the all-around
indispensable eating implement. People had been nibbling tasty
morsels off the point of the device with which they stabbed and
killed their food (or their neighbor) since the beginning of time.
They even mashed up food and scraped it onto the blade for transport
to the mouth. Even after forks started making the rounds, they
remained mostly within the purview of the upper class. Indeed, they
became status symbols, with wealthy Italians hauling them around to
fancy banquets in an ornate box called a cadena.
Not
everybody was on board with the fork at first. The Catholic Church
took offense (surprise, surprise), censuring the use of forks by
decreeing that they were an affront to God's intentions for fingers.
(Why the hat wasn't an affront to God's intentions for hair, I don't
know.) When the fork wielding Venetian lady alluded to in an earlier
paragraph died of a plague a few years after her scandalous banquet
performance, St. Peter Damian proclaimed that her death was
God's punishment for her use of a fork. “Nor did she deign to
touch her food with her fingers, but would command her eunuchs to cut
it up into small pieces, which she would impale on a certain golden
instrument with two prongs and thus carry to her mouth. . . . this
woman’s vanity was hateful to Almighty God; and so, unmistakably,
did He take his revenge. For He raised over her the sword of His
divine justice, so that her whole body did putrefy and all her limbs
began to wither.” Eventually,
common sense prevailed and by the 16th
century, not only the Italians, but the Spanish and the Portuguese
were all chowing down with forks. The French and the English,
however, were a little slow.
It took that great
Renaissance trendsetter, Caterina de' Medici, to bring a touch of
civilization to the uncultured wilderness of France. When she married
the French king, Henry II, in 1533, she brought an entourage of
Florentine cooks with her to the French court, probably so she could
eat a decent meal from time to time. She also brought a set of dinner
forks, supposedly crafted by noted Italian silversmith Benvenuto
Cellini. Always at the forefront of fashion, the French rejected the
fork, calling it an “Italian affectation” and considering it
awkward and even dangerous. It took them more than a hundred years to
figure out how to use it properly. Even the “Sun King,” Louis
XIV, for all his grandiose vanity, was known to eat with his fingers
or a knife. By the way, it was Louis who was more or less responsible
for our current dinner knives. In 1669, he banned pointy knives at
his table in an effort to reduce violence. But I digress.
When it came to forks, the English
turned out to be bigger Luddites than the French. One Thomas Coryate
brought the fork to England after completing the “Grand Tour” of
Europe in 1608. Of the mysterious eating utensil he wrote, “I
observed a custome in all those Italian Cities and Townes through
which I passed that is not used in any other country that I saw in my
travels, neither doe I think that any other nation of Christendome
doth use it, but only Italy. The Italian, and also most strangers
that are cormorant in Italy, does alwaies at their meales, use a
little fork when they cut the meate . . . their forkes being for the
most part made of iron or steel, and some of silver, but these are
used only by gentlemen. The reason of this their curiosity is because
the Italian cannot endure by any means to have his dish touched by
fingers, seeing that all men's fingers are not alike cleane. Hereupon
I myself thought to imitate the Italian fashion by this forke cutting
of meate, not only while I was in Italy, but also in Germany, and
often-times in England since I came home." His friends did
not share his enthusiasm or his avant-garde approach to
dining. They dubbed him “Furcifer” – “Fork Bearer” –
and the rest of the English gentry ridiculed the device as being
effeminate and unnecessary.
Eventually, the aristocracy got with
the program and embraced the fork. England's Charles I – while he
still had his head – declared in 1633 that, “It is decent to use
a fork.” Of course, it took about a hundred years for the fashion
to trickle down to the common man. And even though forks crossed the
Atlantic, they were still a rarity in the North American colonies at
the time of the American Revolution.
Inasmuch as the Italians were
responsible for the introduction of the fork, it took the Germans to
redesign it to its current popular form. Like Italians, Germans had a
real bug about eating with the fingers. They considered the practice
to be rude and disrespectful. But as originally conceived, the fork
was flat. That made it really tough to eat things like peas and
grains. And with only two or three prongs, food often fell through
the spaces. So German craftsmen tinkered with a slightly curved fork
as early as the mid-18th century and by the early 19th
had added a fourth prong, nowadays officially called a “tine.”
(Taken from an old Germanic word for “point.”)
Of course, that didn't mean that people
were any more conversant with how to use the newfangled things. An
early Maine diner complained, “Eating peas with a fork is as bad as
trying to eat soup with a knitting needle.” A wealthy Fleet Street
silversmith, faced with an impeccably set table in a customer's home,
lamented in 1824, “I know how to sell these articles, but not how
to use them.” This is a refrain that still echoes at today's more
elegant affairs. Do you use the salad fork, the meat fork, the oyster
fork, the dinner fork, the dessert fork, the pickle fork, the fish
fork, the crab fork, the fondue fork, the cocktail fork, the cheese
fork, the berry fork, the asparagus fork, the olive fork, the pastry
fork.......or do you just chuck it all and use the spork?
A portmanteau of “spoon” and
“fork,” today's ubiquitous plastic “spork” was patented in
1970. But the design goes back a long way. Earlier patents for metal
utensils were filed as far back as 1874 and the English had something
similar in the “sucket fork,” an implement with a two-or
three-pronged fork on one end and a spoon bowl on the other, as far
back as the 16th century.
So the next time you stick your fork
into a mound of mashed potatoes, a pile of pasta, or a juicy piece of
meat, pause and think, sia ringraziato agli italiani. (“Thanks
be to the Italians.”) Without them you'd be sitting in a house with
no battery-powered radio and no way to call anybody while you ate
your meat and potatoes with your fingers and a knife. Not a pretty
picture.
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