Nearly everybody loves Italian food.
Survey after survey shows it to be one of the world's most popular
cuisines. Not only do people like to eat Italian food, they like to
cook it, too, largely because of a basic tenet of Italian cooking:
simplicity. Italian food is tasty and easy to prepare. What more
could you want?
Italian food came to American shores in
the hearts and souls – and occasionally in the luggage – of
Italian immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th
centuries. And it caught on like wildfire. Americans couldn't get
enough of the stuff in neighborhood Italian restaurants. They wanted
to be able to cook it at home, too. Italian cook Ettore Boiardi –
the real life “Chef Boyardee” – got the ball rolling by packing
up take out containers of his sauce for customers in his Cleveland
eatery. Pretty soon, everybody in
America was cooking like an Italian. Sort of.
Along the way,
American cooks developed some horrible habits that make Italian cooks
cringe. Unfortunately for the culture, Italians are, by and large,
too polite to correct mistakes they observe in those trying to
imitate them. Unlike the French, who spare no effort in reaming you a
new one over the slightest infraction, the Italians have a “whatever”
attitude toward everything from proper pronunciation of their
language to correct preparation of their food. "You want to screw up
our language by saying 'mare-uh-NARE-uh' and 'broo-SHET-uh'
instead of 'mah-ree-NAH-rah' and 'broo-SKET-ah'? Whatever!
You want to screw up our food by employing all manner of bad cooking
techniques? That's okay, too. We're Italian. We don't mind."
Here
are a few random things you will never see
an Italian cook do.
Putting oil in pasta cooking water.
I've been trying to find out how this awful habit got started and I
just don't know. I even contacted the folks at the National Pasta
Association. They don't know, either. It's just one of those things
your mother told you to do because her mother told her to do it that
way. Unless your mother was Italian. Putting oil in the water is one
of the things you will never see
an Italian cook do.
The theory behind the silly practice is
that adding oil to the cooking water will magically keep the pasta
from sticking together. But think back to Chemistry 101. What happens
when you pour oil on water You get water with a film of oil on top.
The only thing you need to pour into pasta cooking water to prevent
sticking is more water. You need at least a gallon of water to cook a
pound of pasta. If you try to dump a whole box of spaghetti into a
two-quart saucepan half full of water, it's gonna stick. Pasta
releases starch as it cooks. That's what gets sticky. The oil you
pour on top just floats around up there and never gets down to where
the stickiness happens. And by the time you pull the cooked pasta up
through the layer of floating oil, the stickiness has already
happened. And, no, stirring it in doesn't help. Unless you really
stir it in enough to create an
emulsion, the oil is just going to drift lazily back to the surface
as soon as you take your spoon out of the pot. If you have enough
water for the pasta to swim around in, the starch disperses and the
noodles don't stick. No oil needed.
Some
people say the oil helps prevent boil overs, and there is something
to that. But I've got an even better, more foolproof way to prevent
boil overs: lower the heat and watch the pot! That's
how an Italian cook does it.
Cooking
pasta without salt. Salt
has become the universal culinary villain in recent years. To listen
to the “experts,” you'd think that everybody who even looks at
the stuff risks dropping dead of a stroke or a heart attack. But you
know what? There are some foods that just absolutely need
salt.
Eggs, for instance. There is nothing worse than an unsalted egg.
Pasta is the same way. In and of itself, it is fairly bland and
flavorless. I mean, dried pasta is made of flour and water, okay? How
much flavor can it have? So you have
to
salt it to make it taste like anything and the salting has
to
be done during the cooking process. In order for it to taste right,
it has to be cooked in – as Mario Batali puts it – aggressively
salted water.
An Italian cook would never
use
less than one or two tablespoons of salt per gallon of water. The
salty flavor is absorbed into the pasta as it swells during cooking. A long-time chef of my acquaintance suggests that cooking pasta in unsalted water actually leeches what little flavor there is out of the pasta, leaving it even more dull and bland.
The salt also helps reduce the gelation of the starch released by the
pasta. And, no, it won't give you an instant heart attack because the
pasta will only absorb so much salt. The rest is drained away. If you
wait until after the pasta is cooked, you can dump salt on it to
little avail. There is no substitute for salting the water.
Rinsing cooked pasta. Another
thing everybody's non-Italian
mother taught them to do was to rinse the cooked pasta. “It gets
all that starch off there.” No, no,no! You want all
that starch on there. It's what helps the sauce adhere to the noodle.
If you're ever served a nice big bowl of pasta where the noodles are
bright white and naked and sitting in a pool of sauce, you can bet
somebody listened to his non-Italian mother and rinsed the pasta. An
Italian mother would never think of rinsing the pasta, so it's
another thing an Italian cook would never do.
Oiling
cooked pasta. Same thing
goes for oiling the pasta after you cook and drain it. Like rinsing,
you would only do that in a pasta salad or some other application
where you don't want anything
to stick to the pasta. Otherwise, you're gonna make that pasta as
slick as a bambino's bottom
and all the work you put into opening that jar of spaghetti sauce
will be wasted because it'll just slide right off the noodle and back
onto the plate. Or onto the front of your shirt. So, okay, I can't
say Italian cooks never oil
pasta, but they only do it in specific instances. Never for
spaghetti or fettuccine or linguine or anything you serve hot with
sauce.
Breaking
up uncooked pasta. Don't
break the pasta. What did it ever do to you? The Italian ear is very
sensitive to the screams of spaghetti noodles as they're being
viciously and cruelly snapped in half before being tossed into a pot
of oily water. If you don't like or want long pasta, don't
buy long pasta! Italians are
artists at twirling up long strands of pasta on a fork and if you ask
one, he'll be happy to show you how to do it without staining your
shirtfront or resorting to breaking the noodles into bite-size pieces
that you could eat with a spoon. An Italian cook never
breaks up the pasta.
Overcooking
pasta. I'll
let you in on a little secret: In spite of what you get in a can of
Chef Boyardee's eponymous product, pasta is not intended to be soft
and mushy. The perfect pasta is cooked to a perfect chewy firmness –
something Italians call al
dente. Al
Dente is not the name of the Italian guy who lives down the street,
and for heaven's sake, it's not al
DANTE. No
doubt Dante was a great Italian poet, but his name has nothing to do
with the proper texture of pasta. He may have, however, reserved a
ring in hell for people who overcook it, something an Italian cook
simply never does.
Cooking
with “cooking wine.” Cooking
with wine is very common in Italian cuisine. What is not
common
is so-called “cooking wine.” You've seen it in supermarkets. It's
usually labeled “Italian Red Cooking Wine” or “White Italian
Cooking Wine” or some such. Don't be fooled. An Italian cook would
never cook
with this stuff. It barely qualifies as wine, being made from the
cheapest, thinnest base wine to which a ton of salt, colorings, and
other substances have been added to make it resemble wine. Rule of
thumb: never cook with a wine you wouldn't drink. And believe me, you
wouldn't want to drink “cooking wine.”
There are numerous other things Italian
cooks don't do. Popular notions to the contrary, they don't cook with
egregious amounts of garlic and they don't serve everything swimming
in seas of red sauce. And they don't put twenty toppings on a pizza.
These are all stereotypes and adulterations brought about by years of
misinformation coupled with the inherent Italian inability to say,
“No! Che non รจ
giusto!”
So, forget what
your mother taught you. Stop oiling, rinsing, breaking, overcooking,
over-saucing and all the other things an Italian cook would never
do. You will be amazed at the difference and your home-cooked
Italian food will start looking and tasting like the delicious food
you love at your favorite authentic Italian restaurant. (Olive Garden
and Pizza Hut don't qualify.) Take some classes, get some books,
interact with some real Italian cooks. If nothing else, watch Mario
and Giada and Lidia and Mary Ann on TV. Cook and enjoy beautiful,
simple Italian food the way it was meant to be cooked and enjoyed.
Those are things Italian cooks always do.
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The View from My Kitchen
Benvenuti! I hope you enjoy il panorama dalla mia cucina Italiana -- "the view from my Italian kitchen,"-- where I indulge my passion for Italian food and cooking. From here, I share some thoughts and ideas on food, as well as recipes and restaurant reviews, notes on travel, a few garnishes from a lifetime in the entertainment industry, and an occasional rant on life in general..
You can help by becoming a follower. I'd really like to know who you are and what your thoughts are on what I'm doing. Every great leader needs followers and if I am ever to achieve my goal of becoming the next great leader of the Italian culinary world :-) I need followers!
Grazie mille!
You can help by becoming a follower. I'd really like to know who you are and what your thoughts are on what I'm doing. Every great leader needs followers and if I am ever to achieve my goal of becoming the next great leader of the Italian culinary world :-) I need followers!
Grazie mille!
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