"A Sharp Knife Is a Safe Knife"
Just about anybody you ask will tell
you the most important piece of equipment in your kitchen is a good
kitchen knife. And they'll likely tell you that you don't need a
fifty-piece set. Three knives will
generally do; a chef's knife, a
utility knife, and a paring knife. Most will also throw in a serrated
knife for cutting breads and cakes and such. From there on you're
pretty much on your own as to selecting the best knives for your
needs.
At this point, I could go into great
detail about metallurgy and composition and carbon content in the
steel and angles and degrees of honing a knife's edge and lots of
other arcania that most people don't care about, don't need to know,
and quickly forget anyway. I'm generally pretty good at overwriting
like that. But not this time. Basically, you want a sharp knife
that's going to stay sharp and last a long time.
Don't walk, run from the sets you find
displayed on discount retailer's shelves. Anything that comes in sets
of ten or twelve or eighteen or more pieces complete with a nifty
knife block for less than twenty dollars is a cheap disaster waiting
to happen. The blades will warp and break, the handles will degrade
and/or come off and the edges will dull quickly and stay that way.
And there is nothing, absolutely nothing more dangerous in a kitchen
than a dull knife.
I always carry my knives with me when
I'm invited to places where I know there's a better than even chance
I'll be cooking something. I got caught unprepared at a friend's
house once and, after observing my cursing attempt to cut a potato
with a knife I nearly had to stand on, my friend went straight to
Walmart and came home proudly displaying a brand new set of knives.
It was a twenty-three piece Mainstays (Walmart's store brand) set in
a “natural” block. He had shelled out twenty bucks for it. I
asked him for another twenty dollar bill, which I took and promptly
set on fire. Not really, but I might as well have done so, and so
might he. Half the “23-piece” set was knives. The remainder were
spatulas and measuring cups and such. So, allowing that the “natural”
block and the cheap plastic accessories might have been worth four
dollars, he paid about sixteen bucks for twelve knives. That's a
buck-thirty-three per knife. I ask you, what kind of quality do you
really think you're getting?
And don't be fooled
by the “celebrity chef” products you see in a lot of stores.
Paula Deen's got her name and face on everything. So do Rachael Ray
and Bobby Flay and Mario Batali and Marcus Samuelsson and Emeril and
Wolfgang and a host of others. Most of these knives are manufactured
by companies like Farberware, the same folks who make the
twenty-dollar sets you see at Walmart, except they stamp a
celebrity's name on them and retail them for four or five times as
much.
At the other end of
the spectrum are the prestigious “name” brands. Wusthof,
Henckels, Global. These are fine knives, the highest quality German
and Japanese steel and the best craftsmanship on the market. And
you'll lay out as much for one knife as you will for a hundred or
more of the store-brand knives from Walmart. Is it worth it?
Probably. If properly taken care of, it will likely be the last knife
you'll ever buy. They're that good. But I can't afford a set of them.
I can't even afford the three or four recommended ones. Most people
can't without a bank loan. A set of the three basic knives from
Wusthof is going to set you back......oh, somewhere around three
hundred dollars. Or about fifteen of the “23-piece” sets from
Wally World.
No, what you need
is a work horse. Take a peek in the kitchen of your favorite local
restaurant. You definitely won't see any “Mainstays” or
“Farberware” or “Paula Deen” knives on that magnetic strip
over the prep area. And you probably won't see many Wusthofs or
Globals there, either. But you might see my favorite knife; the
Victorinox Forschner Fibrox.
Crafted in
Switzerland by the people who have been making Swiss Army knives for
more than a century, this knife is a food service industry standard
and staple. Razor sharp, lightweight, perfectly balanced with a
comfortable non-slip Fibrox grip, this is a piece of professional
grade kitchen equipment anybody can afford for home use. The 8-inch
chef's knife – my favorite – generally retails in stores for
about thirty dollars, and you can get some great deals online at
Amazon and other sources. My wife finds the 8-inch knife to be a
little big for her hand, so I bought her the 6-inch model and now she
won't use anything else. If you're a reader of Cook's Illustrated or
Cook's Country magazines or a fan of their America's Test Kitchen TV
programs, the Victorinox is the knife they use and recommend as their
“Best Value.” If it can stand up to the hard use of the test
kitchens and of your neighborhood restaurant kitchens, it'll do a
great job in yours.
Besides the 6 and
8-inch models, there are 10 and 12-inch chef's knives. And the
aforementioned utility, paring, and serrated bread knives are also
available, all at very affordable prices.
A final word of
advice: don't buy any knife until you've held it in your hand. The
best knife for your kitchen is the one that's best for you. I fell in
love with my Victorinox after I went to several kitchen stores and
held all the Globals and Henckels and Wusthofs and all the others
they had to offer. Some of the ones I expected to like I found to be
unsuited to my needs. The handle was uncomfortable, the balance was
off, the weight was too heavy or too light. But that surprising
little Victorinox turned out to be the Goldilocks of kitchen knives;
everything about it was just right.
As I said,
Victorinox Forschner Fibrox knives are widely available at restaurant
supply stores as well as at retailers like Bed, Bath and Beyond and
local culinary shops. If you don't have any of those nearby, just
enter the name in your search engine and take your pick from among
the dozens of results. But I really do recommend laying hands on one
first. It's a great knife for the test kitchen chefs and for your
neighborhood restaurant cooks and for my wife and me, but your
mileage may vary.
Regardless of
whether you choose my favorite knife or go all out on some of the
high-end knives, please don't succumb to the temptation of cheap,
bargain-basement, “value” knives. They can hurt
you.....literally. And after replacing them every couple of years,
you'll wind up spending as much as you would on a decent knife in the
first place. The second favorite knives in my kitchen are more than
fifty years old. They are from a set of Ecko Eterna knives my mother
got before I was born. They've been well cared for. They've never
rattled around loose in a drawer and they've never seen the inside of
a dishwasher. Their double-riveted hardwood handles are still in good
shape and they retain an edge that will go up cut-for-cut against any
of the newer, more pricey slicers and dicers on the market.
Old-fashioned quality counts, cheap is cheap, and you get what you
pay for.
An old Portuguese
proverb says, “A bad knife cuts one's finger instead of the stick.”
Substitute “steak” for “stick” and bear that in mind when
shopping for kitchen knives.
Pages
The View from My Kitchen
Benvenuti! I hope you enjoy il panorama dalla mia cucina Italiana -- "the view from my Italian kitchen,"-- where I indulge my passion for Italian food and cooking. From here, I share some thoughts and ideas on food, as well as recipes and restaurant reviews, notes on travel, a few garnishes from a lifetime in the entertainment industry, and an occasional rant on life in general..
You can help by becoming a follower. I'd really like to know who you are and what your thoughts are on what I'm doing. Every great leader needs followers and if I am ever to achieve my goal of becoming the next great leader of the Italian culinary world :-) I need followers!
Grazie mille!
You can help by becoming a follower. I'd really like to know who you are and what your thoughts are on what I'm doing. Every great leader needs followers and if I am ever to achieve my goal of becoming the next great leader of the Italian culinary world :-) I need followers!
Grazie mille!
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
Just sharpened a 10" Ekco Eterna tonight. It's a nice piece of heavy quality stainless steel that makes me proud to be an edge enthusiast and all round steel junky. After reprofiling on a diamond plate, an #800 chemical stone, a 1200 King stone then a paddle stropping with .05 green wax I pared the skin off an orange like I was cutting through a hologram and when I placed the knife on the orange to slice it it practically fell to the cutting board with only a slight bit of guidance. I'm still learning how to sharpen but I know one thing for sure junk steel is not worth anybody's time or money. There are some great old knives for cheap in the thrift stores but they are buried in piles and piles of junk steel and it seems there are enough pickers out there to make even those piles void of anything of quality but it's out there. I just finished a Japanese made "Sicialian Chef" ealier today, probably sold in Safeways in the early 70's. It has an old design and look but it's good stainless that takes a wicked edge, I was mincing grapes with it just because I could. You just can't make edges like that with junk steel. Victorinox.. I agree, you can't beat the value there. I have a 10" Victorinox and a 10" Wustoff Classic cook's knife, I love my Wustoff for it's quality and build but frankly is sits in it's sleeve jealous of my Swiss captain of the cutting board.
ReplyDeleteAwesome job really it's great article. Thank your for sharing.
ReplyDeleteModern electric knife sharpeners are easy to use requiring little more than the insertion of the blade to be sharpened into a couple of designated "V" shaped slots usually in two or three stages.
ReplyDeleteBest Electric Knife Sharpener
ReplyDeleteI Just read your article explaining about Cutting Boards and Knives. Thanks for sharing that, I learned a lot from them.
By the way what are the best knife brands in the world for a multipurpose kitchen knife ?
Its something I asked often from my own blog readers Chef Knife Guide and I would love to know what you might think of it.
Thanks,
Ehsan
Great job for publishing such a nice article. Your article isn’t only useful but it is additionally really informative. Thank you because you have been willing to share information with us. Really enjoyed this blog post.Really thank you! Really Great.
ReplyDeletePOCKET KNIFE
BEST THROWING KNIVES
BEST FIXED BLADE KNIFE
BEST FOLDING KNIFE