A Few Inviolable
Rules For Eating Italian Food
Another politician ruffled feathers in
New York recently when he picked up a knife and fork to chow down a
slice of pizza. New Yorkers grouse and grimace and make all kinds of
rude noises whenever the cutlery comes out because they believe the
only way to eat pizza is the
way they eat it: fold
it up and stuff it in your (pizza) pie hole. And as I've written before, it ain't so. But the Big Apple is the Big Apple and you can
always tell a New Yorker.....you just can't tell him much. For those
of you too busy, lazy, or disinterested to follow the hyperlink, I'll
briefly reiterate the basic premise: 1) pizza was invented in Italy;
2) the majority of Italians
– not Italian-Americans – eat pizza with a knife and fork, ergo
3) misinformed New Yorkers can stuff it wherever they wish.
That
said, let's move on to a few other inviolable rules for eating
Italian food. I know, I know, who am I to dictate rules for
eating food? This is America, dammit, the land of the free and the
home of the brave. And we should all be free to eat anything any
whichaway we want, right? It says so in the Declaration of
Independence.....sort of. I think it falls under the “pursuit of
happiness” clause. Hey, sorry; I don't
make the rules, I just report them.
Okay. You've got
this really big date planned and you want to impress by showing off
your urbanity and sophistication and demonstrating your overall
Italian-ness. So you pull up to the Olive Garden......and you've
already blown it. But you know that, right? So you make a U-turn and
head for that “Mom and Pop” place around the corner. You know,
the one with the red-checkered tablecloths and the plastic grapes and
the wine bottle candles? The one with the name that ends in a vowel,
so it's got to be authentic, right? (Sigh)
Let's
start with salad. Actually, let's not. Serving a salad at the start
of a meal is a non-starter in Italy. Wha-a-a-a-a-t? C'mon!
Every Italian restaurant in America offers a nice salad of iceberg
lettuce, tomatoes, onions, maybe some olives, a little cheese.....and
they top it off with creamy Italian dressing. Yeah, well, that's
America. In Italy, salads, if they are served at all, are served near
the end of a meal to act as a palate cleanser and digestive aid. And
that creamy “Italian” dressing? Fuggedaboutit! Real
“Italian dressing” consists of oil and vinegar.
Another
thing you'll only find in faux-Italian places is an endless supply of
“garlic bread” to start off your dining experience. In the first
place, there's no such thing as “garlic bread” in Italian
cuisine. Hunks of bread slathered in garlic-flavored butter simply
don't exist. And don't look too hard for “rustic” bread and a
plate of herb-infused oil in which to dip it. Some places will serve
it, but almost never as an appetizer. Italians love their bread, but
they love it with the
meal, not as a starter to the
meal.
Italians
serve the main meal in courses. They just do. At a minimum, expect a
three-course meal consisting of a primo course
of pasta or rice followed by a secondo of
meat or fish, then a contorno of
vegetables. Often these days, some restaurants will combine the
secondo and the
contorno. This is
largely due to the influence of Americans who bitch and complain if
all their food isn't piled up on one plate. But don't be surprised if
you spend over an hour at the table fielding one plate after another,
usually culminating with some sort of a fruit preparation or a cheese
plate. “Dessert” as Americans know it is not all that common.
Okay.
So let's move on to the classic, quintessential Italian entree,
spaghetti and meatballs. Well......we could if such a dish really
existed outside Italian-American home kitchens and red sauce joints.
In Italy, it's an either/or proposition; never both. You can have
spaghetti OR you can have meatballs. Or you can have spaghetti AND
you can have meatballs. You just can't have spaghetti and meatballs.
You don't believe me? Hop a flight to Italy and try it. I'll wait
here so I can help you translate words like "deficiente,”“cafone,”
and “stronzo.”
Now,
let's say you did order some spaghetti. “Mom and Pop” bring it
out to you with a spoon stuck in it, because that's the way Italians
eat it, right? They hold a fork in one hand and a spoon in the other
and twirl the noodles around the fork with the aid of the spoon. NOT!
You do that in Italy and you'll hear those same words from the
previous paragraph. Unless you're under, oh, say, five years of age.
In that case, it's okay. And if you take a knife to your pasta, every
Italian in the room will faint dead away. If you can't “cut”
eating your pasta uncut, you'd better order something less
challenging. A nice bowl of soup, maybe?
Now, Italians love
Parmesan cheese, right? So surely they can't complain if you douse your entree with a generous helping of Italy's favorite cheese, right?
Ehhhh......not so much. In the first place, chances are the dry,
powdery, cheese-like substance you're shaking out of that shaker at
the “Mom and Pop” bears as much resemblance to real cheese as
reality television does to reality. Or as margarine does to butter.
But even if the stuff you're using is the real deal and not just
cheese-flavored sawdust, it's still a rule breaker in every instance
except pasta. Adding Parmesan to a pasta dish is generally okay –
unless it's a seafood pasta dish. More on that in a second. But
adding it to a beef, veal, pork, or other meat dish? Ehhhh.....not so
much. And don't even think about adding cheese to fish or seafood.
There's logic behind the prohibition. Italian cheeses in general, and
Parmigiano-Reggiano or “Parmesan” in particular, have very
definite flavors of their own. Many of them, especially
Parmigiano-Reggiano, are very salty and would, therefore, run the
risk of substantially altering or overwhelming the natural flavor of
the dish. That and the fact that it's just not done.
Speaking
of putting things on your food, let's talk condiments for a minute.
They are practically non-existent in Italy. At least in the common
American sense. I once prepared a beautiful, delicate pecan-crusted
chicken with Dijon mustard sauce for somebody and then stood watching
in abject horror as he doused it in ketchup. “I just put ketchup
on everything,” was his rationale. He'd last about thirty seconds
in Italy. Don't go looking for ketchup, mustard, mayonnaise, ranch
dressing, barbecue sauce, steak sauce or any of the other add-ons
common to the American table. Italians like the taste of their food.
They don't bury it under gallons
of stuff designed to “add flavor.” They like the flavor as it is.
About the only “condiment” you're likely to find on an Italian
table is olive oil and even that is to be used sparingly so as not to
mask or overwhelm the natural taste of the food itself.
By now
you must be a little thirsty. How about a cup of coffee or a soda to
help wash down that washtub full of pasta “Mom and Pop” just put
in front of you? (Portion size is another issue for another time.) If
you're in Florence, South Carolina, no problem. If you're in
Florence, Italy, it ain't gonna happen. Coffee is for after
the meal and soda is only
offered in pizza joints that cater to Americans. The vast majority of
Italians drink water or wine with meals. Water is frizzante
(sparkling) or naturale
(still) and you'd better be a
fan of room temperature because asking for ice will get you talked
about, perhaps even to your face. And to the horror of puritanical,
prohibitionist American parents, kids drink wine with meals! Yeah,
it's pretty watered down, but it's still a normal thing that does not
result in roving gangs of drunk children staggering through the
streets.
While
we're talking about coffee, if you're a big cappuccino or latte
drinker, guzzle it down before noon. Those are considered breakfast
beverages in Italy and are pretty much banished after midday. After
that, it's all espresso. (And that's ES-presso, not EX-presso, by the
way). If you really can't hack the black, you can order a caffé
macchiato, an espresso topped with a little frothed milk.
If you
like a really big breakfast of bacon, sausage, eggs, potatoes,
pancakes, toast, jam, etc., or if you're a milk and cereal person,
either way, you're gonna hate Italy. In Italy you get a cornetto
(a kind of pastry) and
coffee.
And if
you're a “grab and go” person who likes to eat on the run, you
won't get far in Italy. In America it's commonplace to grab a hot dog
or something and hit the pavement, munching as you walk. In Italy,
that's almost unspeakably rude. Meals are social occasions and food
is meant to be savored and enjoyed, not shoved into your face as you
perambulate. Even “snack foods” like suppli or
panelle aren't eaten
on the go, although standing and eating is acceptable if there's no
place available to sit. The only exception to this rule is gelato.
Italians love their ice cream,
and going for un passeggiata (a
walk) while eating ice cream is almost a national tradition.
One last rule to
wrap up, and this one applies more to dining in a home situation than
in a restaurant: clean your plate. No matter how trendy it might be
in America, in Italy it is still insulting to the host when you leave
unfinished food on your plate. Don't worry about gaining a hundred
pounds. Unlike the “abbondanza” foolishness
Italian-Americans promote, wherein tables groan and diners moan as
they undertake to consume portions that would feed armies of starving
Armenian children, Italians are very moderate and balanced eaters.
Your Italian mama in Naples, Florida might pile enough pasta on your
plate to fill up the trunk of a Buick, but your Italian mama in
Naples, Italy would give you a portion about the size of your closed
fist. Despite what hokey TV commercials would have you believe,
that's Italian. But be careful not to clean your plate too
quickly. Your politely concerned host might refill it, thinking you
are not getting fed enough.
When it comes down to it, these are just
rules, not laws. They represent respect for a culture and its traditions. If
you break them, nobody is going to report you or have you arrested.
At worst, you'll be looked upon as un maleducato, ignorante
cafone. If you can live with that, so can I.